Ground cover plants: how to choose for shade, sun, and slopes (and which to avoid)

At a glance

What ground cover plants are, and when they beat lawn

A ground cover is any low plant that spreads, by runners, rhizomes, rooting stems, or self-seeding, until it covers the soil in a continuous carpet. In landscaping, the term covers low perennials, sedges, vines kept on the ground, and prostrate shrubs such as creeping juniper. A ground cover's jobs are to cover bare soil, hold slopes, shade out weeds once it fills in, and replace turf where grass struggles.

Virginia Cooperative Extension's guide to selecting groundcovers defines one as a plant 3 feet tall or shorter that spreads into a relatively dense layer, and notes that covering bare soil reduces erosion. Turfgrass, by contrast, needs relatively high light and frequent mowing. Iowa State University Extension calls a shade-tolerant ground cover an excellent alternative to turf under large trees and beside buildings, where grass grows poorly. The tradeoff is foot traffic: VCE notes that most ground cover species, unlike turfgrass, do not tolerate it.

Pick a ground cover by your site, not by a photo. Answer five questions before you shop:

1. Light: full sun (6+ hours of direct sun), part shade, or full shade?
2. Moisture: dry, average, or wet? Dry shade under trees is its own, harder category.
3. Traffic: none, occasional stepping, or regular use?
4. Slope: flat or steep?
5. Region: which plants are native where you live, and which are invasive there?

Find the right ground cover guide for your site

This page is the overview. Each situation below has its own detailed guide on this site:

For dry, sunny yards in the West, the xeriscape alternatives guide covers low-water options.

Ground cover for shade

Shade ground covers succeed or fail on moisture more than light. Under shallow-rooted trees, roots take most of the water, so plants that thrive in moist woodland shade often dwindle there. Iowa State University Extension publishes a list of groundcovers for shade for Midwest conditions. NC State Extension notes that established barrenwort tolerates deep shade and drought and its shallow roots compete well with tree roots. The dry shade guide covers the hardest sites in depth.

Evergreen status and native ranges in the table follow NC State Extension's Plant Toolbox and VCE. The Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia, a Virginia Cooperative Extension program, include green-and-gold in their tried-and-true native ground covers for the Mid-Atlantic, and NC State describes it as a 2-inch mat for part to full shade. For broader shade planting beyond ground covers, see shade-loving outdoor plants.

Ground cover for sun

Sunny ground covers need to handle heat and drought, and most need good drainage. Creeping thyme and low sedums in particular want lean, sandy, gritty, or rocky soil that drains fast.

In the desert Southwest, use regional natives and drought-adapted ground covers rather than eastern standbys, since many of those need summer water.

Evergreen ground cover options

Evergreen ground covers keep the ground covered in winter, which matters on slopes and in front-yard beds. The catch is that several of the most popular evergreen ground covers are invasive in much of the eastern US. Here are the common evergreen choices, sorted by risk:

Alternatives to grass: ground covers you can walk on

Most ornamental ground covers are for looking at, not walking on. If the area has to handle feet, kids, or dogs, choose from a short list of tougher options, each covered in its own guide on this site:

The full comparison, including how each option holds up to dogs and regular foot traffic, is in lawn alternatives. For heavy-use paths, set stepping stones through any ground cover.

Invasive ground covers to avoid, and native swaps

The traits that make a ground cover sell (fast, aggressive, indestructible) are the same traits that let it escape into woodlands. The Maryland Invasive Species Council notes that the large evergreen patches covering the ground in Maryland parks and natural areas in winter are mostly non-native species, led by English ivy, wintercreeper, Japanese pachysandra, and periwinkle. Here is where each of the popular offenders stands:

• English ivy (Hedera helix): Virginia's 2024 Invasive Plant Species List, from the Department of Conservation and Recreation, ranks it medium in invasiveness, and NC State Extension lists it as invasive in North Carolina. The National Park Service notes that at Olympic National Park it smothers shrubs and trees and, being shade tolerant, can thrive even in undisturbed old-growth forest. EDDMapS, run by the University of Georgia's Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health, shows it on invasive lists from California to Georgia.
• Periwinkle (Vinca minor and bigleaf periwinkle, V. major): both are on Virginia's list (low rank), and NC State notes the NC Invasive Plant Council classifies V. minor as invasive. The Maryland Invasive Species Council reports that periwinkle has escaped into natural areas throughout the eastern US, forming large patches that push out native plants and keep tree seedlings from surviving.
• Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei): ranked medium on Virginia's list. NC State notes it is listed as invasive in North Carolina and other southeastern states and readily escapes into native forests.
• Japanese pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis): not on Virginia's list, but EDDMapS shows it on invasive lists including Pennsylvania DCNR's, the Delaware Invasive Species Council's, and West Virginia's, and the Maryland council names it among the ground covers spreading in natural areas. VCE notes it spreads by rhizomes into surrounding beds unless confined by a barrier.

Invasive status varies by state, as the pachysandra example shows. Check your state's invasive plant list or EDDMapS before planting anything that spreads aggressively.

Iowa State Extension points to Allegheny pachysandra as a native alternative to Japanese pachysandra; it spreads less aggressively. University of Maryland Extension recommends it for shade where deer browse, noting deer don't touch it. To remove ivy or vinca you inherited, pull and dig out the runners and rooted sections, repeating as they regrow. The National Park Service cuts ivy vines climbing trees near the ground and follows hand-pulled vines back to the main root; the Maryland council notes periwinkle can be pulled, dug, or raked up. Identification and removal methods for ivy and other woody invaders are covered in invasive vines: ID and removal. Regional native lists, such as native plants for the Northeast, offer more replacements.

How to plant ground cover

When to plant ground cover: spring or early fall, when the soil is workable and there is time for roots to establish before summer heat or a hard freeze. Fall planting suits cool-season regions, and rainfall often does the watering. In hot climates, plant in fall or late winter and avoid midsummer.

1. Clear the area completely. Remove existing weeds, especially perennial weeds and grass with running roots. Ground covers cannot outcompete established weeds while they are small. To convert lawn, follow the kill-and-prep steps in replacing lawn with ground covers.
2. Prepare the whole bed, not individual holes. Loosen and amend the entire area so spreading roots and runners can move through it. Under trees, do not add soil over roots; plant small plugs into pockets between roots instead.
3. Work out your plant count using the table below.
4. Plant in staggered rows (a triangular pattern) so the gaps close evenly. On slopes, this pattern also slows runoff.
5. Mulch between the plants with a thin layer of fine mulch to block weeds while the plants fill in. Keep mulch off the crowns.
6. Water deeply after planting, then regularly through the first growing season.

How many ground cover plants you need

VCE explains the tradeoff: fast spreaders can go in at wider spacing, while slow growers need closer spacing unless you are willing to wait, and wide gaps invite weeds. Closer spacing costs more but fills in sooner. Recommended spacing for each species is on its plant tag and in the lawn replacement guide. Use this math to convert spacing into plant counts:

Square grid: plants per square foot = 144 ÷ (spacing in inches)². Staggered rows hold about 15% more plants for the same spacing.

Care while it fills in, and after

• The first few years are about weeding. No ground cover chokes out weeds until its canopy closes. VCE notes that short ground covers (1 foot or less) and those that lose their leaves in winter are more prone to weeds. Until the canopy closes, weed regularly and top up the mulch.
• Water through establishment, then only in drought for most established ground covers. On slopes, University of Maryland Extension advises supplementing rainfall for at least two years.
• Feed lightly, if at all. A soil test tells you whether the bed needs anything. Heavy feeding mostly feeds the weeds.
• Edge aggressive spreaders. VCE cautions that ground covers spreading by rhizomes, stolons, or suckers are hard to keep in bounds without a barrier. Use a physical edge or cut the runners each season.
• Renew some types by cutting back. VCE notes that mowing rejuvenates Aaronsbeard St. Johnswort after winter damage. Most woody ground covers need no shearing.
• Leave fallen leaves in shade beds where they do not smother low plants. They return organic matter to the soil, as forest litter does.

Deer pressure changes which ground covers survive. University of Maryland Extension has published groundcover suggestions for shady, deer-browsed yards, led by Allegheny pachysandra, and this site's deer-resistant garden strategy covers the bigger picture.

Common mistakes

Frequently asked

What is ground cover in landscaping?

Ground cover is any low, spreading plant used to cover soil in a continuous mat. Landscapers use it where lawn struggles, such as in shade, on slopes, and among tree roots, and to suppress weeds once it fills in. Examples range from sedges and creeping phlox to prostrate shrubs like creeping juniper.

What ground cover grows in shade?

For dry shade, Pennsylvania sedge and barrenwort (Epimedium) are among the most reliable choices. For moist shade, Canada wild ginger, foamflower, and Allegheny pachysandra are good native options. Avoid English ivy and vinca, which are on Virginia's and North Carolina's invasive plant lists.

How do you plant ground cover?

Clear all weeds and grass, then loosen and amend the whole bed rather than digging individual holes. Plant in staggered rows at the spacing on the tag, mulch lightly between plants, and water regularly through the first season. Expect to weed until the plants close their canopy, which takes longer for slow spreaders and wide spacing.

When should you plant ground cover?

Spring or early fall is best in most regions. Both give roots time to establish before summer heat or a hard freeze. In hot-summer climates, fall planting is usually the better bet.

What ground cover chokes out weeds?

Dense, evergreen ground covers suppress weeds best, but only after they fill in completely. No ground cover chokes out established weeds from day one. Start with a clean bed, plant closely, and mulch and weed until the canopy closes.

Is clover a good ground cover?

White clover and microclover make good walkable ground covers in sunny lawns. Virginia Cooperative Extension rates a white clover cultivar (bronze Dutch clover) as tolerating moderate foot traffic, more than most ornamental ground covers. See the clover lawn pros and cons guide on this site for the details.

How do you get rid of ivy ground cover?

Pull the runners, following each vine back to its main root, dig out rooted sections, and bag the debris so stems do not reroot. Cut any vines climbing trees near the ground first, as the National Park Service does. Plan on several rounds of follow-up as pieces resprout, and replant the area with native ground covers so ivy does not move back in.

What is the best low-maintenance ground cover?

The lowest-maintenance ground cover is one matched to its site: Pennsylvania sedge for dry shade, creeping juniper or low sedums for hot, dry sun, and wild ginger for moist shade. Once established, these need little more than occasional weeding and edging.

Sources

1. Selecting Landscape Plants: Groundcovers (426-609), Virginia Cooperative Extension
2. Virginia Invasive Plant Species List (effective September 2024), Virginia Department of Conservation and Recreation
3. Groundcovers for Shade, Iowa State University Extension and Outreach
4. Invasive Vinca, Rhymes with "Stinka", Maryland Invasive Species Council
5. English Ivy, National Park Service, Olympic National Park
6. Hedera helix (English Ivy), NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
7. Vinca minor (Periwinkle), NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
8. Euonymus fortunei (Climbing Euonymus, Wintercreeper), NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
9. English ivy (Hedera helix), EDDMapS, University of Georgia Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health
10. Japanese pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis), EDDMapS, University of Georgia Center for Invasive Species and Ecosystem Health
11. Chrysogonum virginianum (Green-and-Gold), NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
12. Ground Cover: Chrysogonum virginianum (Green-and-Gold), Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia
13. Carex pensylvanica (Pennsylvania Sedge), NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
14. Q&A: Try These Groundcovers That Will Keep Deer Away, University of Maryland Extension

Read next