Best Plants for Erosion Control
Erosion control is a root system problem, not a foliage problem. The plants that stop soil from moving on a slope are the ones with dense, deep, fibrous root systems that bind soil particles together and increase water infiltration. Surface coverage -- how much green you see -- is.
—- title: "Best Plants for Erosion Control" slug: best-plants-for-erosion-control hub: plants category: "Plant Lists" description: "The best plants for erosion control on slopes, banks, and disturbed areas. Native species, root depth data, and slope percentage guidelines from Extension sources." date: 2026-06-10 updated: 2026-06-10 author: "Thomas A." reading_time: 8 —-
Erosion control is a root system problem, not a foliage problem. The plants that stop soil from moving on a slope are the ones with dense, deep, fibrous root systems that bind soil particles together and increase water infiltration. Surface coverage — how much green you see — is secondary.
This matters because many plants sold for slopes and banks have shallow roots that provide surface coverage without meaningful erosion control. Dense annual groundcovers may look good for a season while the slope beneath them continues to erode.
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Slope Gradient Guide
Per NC State Extension:
- Under 2:1 (under 50% grade): Most ground covers and shrubs can establish without reinforcement
- 2:1 to 3:1 (33–50% grade): Use erosion control fabric during establishment; choose deep-rooted species
- Steeper than 3:1: Engineering reinforcement typically required; consult a civil engineer or Extension specialist
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Grasses for Erosion Control
Panicum virgatum (Switchgrass)
Zones 5–9 | Root depth: 8–11 feet | Spread: clumping
Per NC State Extension, switchgrass is one of the best plants for erosion control because its roots can extend 6–11 feet into the soil profile, binding deep soil layers. It handles both wet and dry slopes, full sun to part shade. Does not spread aggressively by rhizome (clumping habit). Provides excellent wildlife habitat.
Andropogon gerardii (Big Bluestem)
Zones 3–9 | Root depth: up to 10 feet | Spread: clumping
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, big bluestem has one of the deepest root systems of any perennial grass — up to 10 feet in good soil. It is native to North American prairies and is extremely drought-tolerant once established. The deep roots make it one of the best species for steep, dry slopes. Grows 4–7 feet tall.
Festuca arundinacea (Tall Fescue)
Zones 4–7 | Root depth: 2–4 feet | Spread: clumping
Per Penn State Extension, tall fescue is widely used for turfgrass on slopes because it establishes quickly from seed and produces a dense, wear-tolerant stand. It is not as deep-rooted as native grasses but establishes faster. The variety 'Kentucky 31' is the standard for slope stabilization seeding.
Sorghastrum nutans (Indian Grass)
Zones 4–9 | Root depth: 6–8 feet | Spread: clumping
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, Indian grass is a warm-season native with deep roots and attractive fall color (gold-orange). It tolerates clay, sandy, and dry soils. Tawny seed heads in fall provide winter interest.
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Shrubs for Erosion Control
Rosa — native and rambling types
Zones 4–9 | Root spread: extensive
Per Penn State Extension, native roses such as R. carolina (Carolina rose, zones 4–9) and R. palustris (swamp rose) colonize slopes and streambanks by spreading by root suckers to form thickets. The dense root mass is excellent for bank stabilization. They are not formal-looking plants — use them on naturalistic slopes where a thicket is acceptable.
Juniperus horizontalis (Creeping Juniper)
Zones 3–9 | Spread: 6–8 feet | Root: fibrous
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, creeping juniper is one of the most widely planted woody ground covers for slopes in zones 3–9. It spreads 6–8 feet wide at maturity but stays under 12 inches tall. Extremely drought-tolerant, deer-resistant. Not suited for wet soils or shade. Cultivars: 'Blue Chip', 'Bar Harbor', 'Prince of Wales'.
Cotoneaster horizontalis (Rockspray Cotoneaster)
Zones 4–7 | Spread: 5–8 feet | Root: fibrous
Per NC State Extension, rockspray cotoneaster's herringbone branching pattern makes it an effective slope cover. Red berries attract birds. It is listed as invasive in some Pacific Northwest areas — check your state's invasive species list. In the Northeast and Midwest it is not an invasive concern.
Hypericum calycinum (Creeping St. John's Wort)
Zones 5–9 | Spread: by runners | Root: fibrous
Per NC State Extension, creeping St. John's Wort spreads by stolons to form a dense 12–18-inch-tall mat. Yellow flowers in summer. Tolerates shade and slopes. Can be aggressive but is generally controllable in residential settings.
Symphoricarpos orbiculatus (Coralberry)
Zones 2–9 | Spread: suckering thicket | Root: deep fibrous
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, coralberry is a native shrub that spreads by root suckers to form dense thickets excellent for bank stabilization. Coral-pink berries in fall. Tolerates shade, dry soils, and clay. The aggressive spreading habit is a feature for erosion control, not a bug.
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Ground Covers for Erosion Control
Pachysandra terminalis (Japanese Pachysandra)
Zones 4–8 | Spread: by rhizomes | Root: shallow
Per Penn State Extension, pachysandra is the most commonly planted shade ground cover in the eastern US. It is not as drought-tolerant as junipers and does best with moderate moisture. Root depth is relatively shallow, so it is better suited to gentle slopes than steep banks.
Vinca minor (Periwinkle)
Zones 4–9 | Spread: by runners | Root: shallow
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, periwinkle provides quick, dense surface coverage on slopes and is widely used for this purpose. It is invasive in some eastern states — check your state list. Root depth is shallow, so it provides surface coverage but limited deep erosion control on steep slopes.
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides (Hardy Plumbago)
Zones 5–9 | Spread: by rhizomes | Drought: excellent
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, hardy plumbago spreads by underground rhizomes to form a 12–18-inch-tall mat with blue flowers in August–October and red fall color. Excellent drought tolerance once established. Emerges late in spring (May) — allow for this before assuming the planting failed.
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Establishment Notes
Per Penn State Extension, plants for erosion control on slopes require:
- Soil preparation — at least 4–6 inches of loosened soil for planting
- Erosion fabric during establishment on slopes steeper than 2:1
- Irrigation during the first 8–12 weeks until roots anchor
- Staggered planting (triangular grid, not rows) to maximize coverage
Do not seed bare slopes with annual grass mixes as a "temporary" erosion control solution without a plan to establish permanent plants within the first season — annual cover will die over winter and leave bare soil.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What is the fastest plant for covering a bare slope? Per Penn State Extension, crown vetch (Coronilla varia) covers slopes rapidly but is invasive in many states and should not be planted near natural areas. For non-invasive rapid coverage, a mix of annual ryegrass (for immediate cover) seeded with switchgrass or big bluestem (for permanent establishment) is the approach recommended by Penn State.
Can I just put mulch on a slope? Per Penn State Extension, mulch is not an effective long-term erosion control on slopes steeper than 2:1 because it washes away in rain events. Anchored straw crimped into the soil surface or jute erosion netting are better temporary solutions during plant establishment.
Do creeping junipers control erosion on steep slopes? Per NC State Extension, creeping junipers are effective on slopes up to about 2:1. On steeper slopes, the root system is not deep enough to anchor the plant adequately, and plants may be uprooted in heavy rain events. Deeper-rooted species (native grasses, coralberry) are better on very steep sites.
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Sources
- Penn State Extension — Erosion and Sediment Control
- NC State Extension — Erosion Control Plants
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Plant Finder