What to plant in November

In zones 5–7, November is the last window for spring bulbs and garlic (if the ground isn't frozen), and the start of winter sowing for cold-stratification-dependent seeds. In zones 8–9, the cool-season garden is fully active. In zones 9–11, it's the best planting month of the yea

Most zone 5–6 gardens have experienced their first frost by now, and the idea of planting anything new can seem futile. But November is more productive than it looks — if you know what's still possible.

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Still possible in zones 5–7 in November

Spring bulbs (early November only)

The window is narrow but real. Per Penn State Extension, "tulips and daffodils planted in early November in zone 6 will still bloom the following spring." The constraint is soil that's still workable — once the ground freezes solid, bulb planting is impossible.

Late-planted bulbs bloom reliably but may produce slightly smaller flowers than properly timed October plantings. Per Missouri Botanical Garden, "late-planted bulbs 'know' what to do and will bloom on the normal schedule despite the late start." The cold stratification happens naturally in the soil through winter.

What to plant if late:

• Daffodils: most cold-tolerant; fine through mid-November
• Alliums: can be planted into November
• Tulips: plant as early in November as possible; avoid large, expensive bulbs for very late planting given the increased risk of suboptimal results
• Crocus, scilla, muscari: these small bulbs are very forgiving; plant whenever soil allows

Garlic (early November, zone 7)

Zone 7 (Long Island, DC, Nashville) gardeners who missed the October window can still plant garlic in early November. Per Penn State Extension, garlic needs "6–8 weeks of root growth before the ground freezes." Zone 7 soil typically doesn't freeze hard until December — November planting is often fine.

Zone 6 garlic planting is riskier in November. If you have a warm fall and workable soil, plant immediately. If the soil is already cold and partially frozen, late October or early November garlic may not establish sufficient roots.

Cold-hardy vegetables under row cover

Established kale, Swiss chard, collards, spinach, and mâche survive November frosts in zones 6–7 and continue to be harvest-able. A single layer of Agribon row cover-19 row cover extends the productive season by 2–4 weeks. A cold frame extends it indefinitely in some years.

What to still direct sow: Very little, for zones 5–7. The exception is mâche (corn salad) — per Penn State Extension, "mâche can be successfully direct-sown in October or early November in zone 6–7 and will lie dormant through winter, emerging in early spring." This is a legitimate early-November option.

Zones 8–9: November is peak cool-season

Per Clemson HGIC, "November is the heart of the cool-season vegetable garden in zone 8." The full range of cool-season crops are active:

Direct sow:

• Spinach, lettuce, arugula, Asian greens
• Beets, carrots, turnips, radishes
• Peas (zone 8b–9)

Transplant:

• Broccoli and cabbage transplants for December–January harvest
• Onion transplants for spring bulb harvest

Per Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, "November through February is the prime cool-season growing period in South Texas and the Gulf Coast." Tomatoes planted in October in zone 9 are actively growing and may produce into December.

Garlic: Zone 8–9 gardeners plant garlic in November for spring harvest.

Zones 10–11: year-round planting

Per UF IFAS Extension, November is "an excellent month for starting most vegetables" in South Florida (zone 10–11). Plant tomatoes, squash, cucumbers, beans (all warm-season crops that the rest of the country plants in April–May), as well as the full range of cool-season vegetables.

Hawaii gardeners at lower elevations also have year-round planting options, though specific timing varies by elevation and island.

Winter sowing: the November technique for zone 4–6 gardeners

Winter sowing is a method of starting seeds outdoors in late fall or winter in covered containers that act as mini-greenhouses. The seeds undergo natural cold stratification and germinate in spring when conditions are right.

Per University of Minnesota Extension, winter sowing works well for "plants that benefit from cold stratification, including many native perennials and cold-tolerant annuals." The method:

1. Use gallon milk jugs or similar clear plastic containers. Cut around the middle, leaving a hinge at the back.
2. Add 3–4 inches of moistened seed-starting mix.
3. Sow seeds at the recommended depth.
4. Close the container and tape shut. Remove the cap to allow ventilation.
5. Place outside where containers will receive winter precipitation and cold temperatures.
6. Check in spring — seedlings emerge when conditions are right.

Good winter sowing candidates: Coneflower (Echinacea), black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), columbine, sweet William, snapdragon, lobelia, cleome, pansies, bachelor's button. These all benefit from cold stratification.

Poor winter sowing candidates: Tomatoes, peppers, basil, marigolds — warm-season annuals that need heat, not cold.

Tree and shrub planting in November

November is still a valid planting month for deciduous trees and shrubs in zones 6–8 if the soil is workable. Per Penn State Extension, "fall planting is preferred over spring planting for most landscape trees and shrubs because roots continue to grow through fall and early spring without summer heat stress."

Evergreen trees and shrubs planted in November in zones 5–6 are more at risk — they continue losing water through leaves while roots haven't yet established in cold soil. Per Missouri Botanical Garden, "late-fall planting of evergreens carries more risk than spring planting in zones 5–6." If you must plant broadleaf evergreens late, anti-desiccant sprays (Wilt-Pruf) on the foliage reduce moisture loss.

Perennial planting notes for November

Per NC State Extension, "perennials planted in November in zone 7 will establish root systems over winter and begin growth normally in spring." The caveat: plant early enough in November that the plants get 3–4 weeks of root growth before hard freezes.

In zone 7a, I've successfully planted hostas, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans in early November with good results the following spring. After November 15 in zone 7, I consider the planting window risky for most perennials.

Regional guide for November

Northeast (zones 5–7)

Plant: spring bulbs (early November only), garlic (zone 7), mâche for winter dormancy. Protect: kale, chard, spinach with row cover. Don't start: any warm-season seedlings indoors.

Southeast (zones 7–9)

Full cool-season garden active. Transplant, direct sow. Zone 9: plant garlic now.

Midwest (zones 4–6)

Limited November planting. Begin winter sowing in late November for cold-stratified perennials and hardy annuals.

Pacific Northwest (zones 7–9)

Zone 8 (Willamette Valley): Continue cool-season planting. Per Oregon State Extension, "fall planting of garlic and overwintering greens continues through November in zone 8 PNW."

State planting calendars

• New York: /planting/ny/
• Pennsylvania: /planting/pa/
• Texas: /planting/tx/
• North Carolina: /planting/nc/

Common mistakes

Frequently asked

Can I plant perennials in November?

In zone 7, yes, in early November. After mid-November in zone 7, the risk of inadequate root establishment before hard freezes increases. Per Penn State Extension, aim to give newly planted perennials "at least 3–4 weeks before hard freezes." Container-grown perennials are better bets for late planting than bare-root ones.

What bulbs can I still plant in November?

Daffodils, alliums, scilla, crocus, and muscari are all workable as long as the soil isn't frozen. Tulips can still be planted in early November. Per Missouri Botanical Garden, "as long as the soil is workable and above 40°F, bulbs can be planted and will bloom in spring."

Do I need to mulch garlic planted in November?

Yes. Per Penn State Extension, "mulch is essential for November-planted garlic" to insulate against freeze-thaw cycles that can heave cloves from the soil. Apply 2–3 inches of straw, shredded leaves, or shredded bark over the planting area.

Sources

1. Penn State Extension — Late-Season Bulbs and Garlic
2. Missouri Botanical Garden — Bulb Planting
3. Clemson HGIC — Fall and Winter Vegetables
4. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension — Cool-Season Planting
5. University of Minnesota Extension — Winter Sowing
6. NC State Extension — Fall Perennial Planting
7. Oregon State Extension — Garlic Planting