Growing French tarragon (the only kind worth growing)
If a seed packet says "tarragon," it is Russian tarragon (*Artemisia dracunculus* subsp. *dracunculoides*), and it tastes of very little. True French tarragon (*Artemisia dracunculus* var. *sativa*) does not produce viable seed and must be propagated vegetatively. This is the essential fact about.
—- title: "Growing French tarragon (the only kind worth growing)" slug: growing-french-tarragon hub: vegetables category: "Herb guide" description: "How to grow French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa), why it must be propagated vegetatively, container culture tips, and why Russian tarragon is not a substitute." date: 2026-06-10 updated: 2026-06-10 author: "Thomas A." reading_time: 9 scientific: "Artemisia dracunculus" zones_min: 4 zones_max: 8 sun: "full sun" —-
If a seed packet says "tarragon," it is Russian tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus subsp. dracunculoides), and it tastes of very little. True French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus var. sativa) does not produce viable seed and must be propagated vegetatively. This is the essential fact about tarragon that every guide needs to state upfront.
Per Penn State Extension, French tarragon contains estragole (methyl chavicol), a volatile compound responsible for its distinctive anise-licorice flavor. Russian tarragon contains far lower concentrations of this compound and essentially lacks culinary value.
I don't grow tarragon in my Melville garden — I've prioritized other herbs in my raised beds. This guide is sourced from Extension publications.
Identifying French vs Russian tarragon
Per Penn State Extension:
- French tarragon: Narrower, glossy leaves; does not produce viable seed; intense anise flavor when leaf is crushed; shorter and more compact (18-24 inches)
- Russian tarragon: Wider, duller leaves; produces seed readily; little to no flavor; taller and coarser (3+ feet)
The reliable test: rub a leaf between your fingers and taste it. If there is no immediate, clear anise flavor, it is Russian tarragon or a seed-grown hybrid. Send it back.
USDA hardiness zones
Per Penn State Extension, French tarragon is hardy in USDA zones 4-8. It goes fully dormant in winter and re-emerges from the roots in spring. In zones 9-11, the required winter dormancy period is insufficient, and plants often decline after 1-2 years. In zones 4-5, mulch the root crown with 3-4 inches of straw after the ground freezes to prevent frost heaving.
Light requirements
Per NC State Extension, French tarragon requires full sun — 6 or more hours of direct sunlight per day. Partial shade produces leggy, weak growth with reduced flavor intensity (lower volatile oil concentration).
Propagation
Because French tarragon does not set viable seed, propagation options are:
- Division: Dig established clumps in early spring just as new growth begins. Divide into sections with at least 3-5 shoots and a healthy root system. Replant at the same depth, 18-24 inches apart. This is the most reliable propagation method, per Penn State Extension.
- Stem cuttings: Per Cornell Cooperative Extension, take 4-6 inch softwood tip cuttings in late spring to early summer. Remove lower leaves and insert in moist perlite or sand. Maintain humidity; roots develop in 2-4 weeks.
- Purchase transplants: For most gardeners, purchasing established transplants from a reputable herb nursery is the simplest and most reliable route. Verify the purchase by tasting a leaf.
Watering
Per Penn State Extension, French tarragon is moderately drought tolerant. Water established plants at 1 inch per week during the growing season. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. Overwatering — which is far more common than under-watering with tarragon — causes root rot and sudden collapse.
In containers, check soil moisture daily in summer. Water when the top inch of soil is dry.
Soil requirements
Per Penn State Extension, French tarragon demands:
- Sharply drained, low to moderately fertile soil
- pH 6.0-7.5
- Sandy loam or amended clay with substantial drainage improvement
This is not a plant for rich, amended garden soil. Heavy feeders and wet soils kill French tarragon. Per Penn State, the most common cause of tarragon death after transplanting is poorly drained soil combined with heavy irrigation.
Fertilizing
Per NC State Extension, tarragon needs minimal fertilization. Incorporate compost lightly at planting. In subsequent years, a single spring top-dressing of compost or a dilute application of balanced fertilizer is sufficient. Heavy nitrogen produces lush, rank-tasting growth with diluted aromatic oils.
Harvesting
Per Penn State Extension, harvest individual sprigs throughout the growing season by cutting stems 4-6 inches from the growing tip. Do not remove more than one-third of the plant's foliage at one harvest. The leaves are most aromatic before flowering.
Tarragon loses much of its flavor when dried. Per Penn State, the best methods for preserving flavor are:
- Freezing: Blanch sprigs briefly, pat dry, freeze in single layers on a baking sheet, transfer to bags. Usable for 6 months.
- Infused vinegar: Pack sprigs in white wine vinegar for 2-3 weeks. Excellent way to capture flavor without the textural loss of drying.
- Fresh use: The strongest option; harvest just before use.
Rejuvenating declining plants
Per Penn State Extension, French tarragon should be divided every 3-4 years to maintain vigor. Plants that are not divided become woody and sparse at the center. After 3-4 years, the center of the clump typically dies back, with productive growth only at the perimeter — the signal that division is overdue.
Pests and diseases
French tarragon has relatively few pest problems when grown in appropriate conditions.
**Rust (Puccinia dracunculina):** Per Penn State Extension, rust is the most significant disease — orange-brown pustules on leaf undersides. Improve air circulation; remove affected leaves; avoid overhead irrigation. Severe rust infections can cause premature defoliation.
Downy mildew: Yellow patches on upper leaf surface with gray-purple sporulation below. Remove affected growth; improve air circulation.
Aphids: Occasional on new growth. Control with water spray or insecticidal soap.
Root rot: Usually from overwatering or poorly-drained soil. No cure once established; remove and replant in well-drained site.
Common problems
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Little or no flavor | Russian tarragon purchased; not French | Replace with verified A. dracunculus var. sativa transplant |
| Sudden wilting in wet weather | Root rot | Remove plant; improve drainage before replanting |
| Orange spots on leaves | Rust fungus | Remove leaves; improve air circulation |
| Sparse center of clump | Overdue for division | Divide in early spring |
| Plant doesn't return in spring | Winter crown damage or root rot | Check drainage; mulch crown in zone 4-5 |
Frequently asked questions
Why can't I grow French tarragon from seed? Per Penn State Extension, French tarragon (A. dracunculus var. sativa) does not produce viable seed due to infertility in its reproductive system. This is a botanical trait of the cultivated variety, not a supply issue. Any tarragon seed sold commercially is Russian tarragon or a non-culinary hybrid.
How do I know the tarragon I bought at a garden center is French and not Russian? Taste a leaf immediately. Per Penn State, French tarragon has a clear, immediate anise-licorice flavor when the leaf is rubbed or chewed. Russian tarragon has little to no flavor — it tastes of grass. If the plant has no flavor, it is not French tarragon regardless of what the tag says.
Can I grow French tarragon in a container? Per NC State Extension, yes. Use a container at least 12 inches deep and wide with excellent drainage. Use a well-draining potting mix amended with 25-30% perlite. Container-grown plants need division every 2 years as the root system fills the container. Bring containers to a cool but frost-free location for winter in zones 4-6.
How long does French tarragon live? Per Penn State Extension, well-maintained French tarragon plants (divided regularly, grown in well-drained soil) are long-lived. Individual divisions can remain productive for many years. The key management practice is regular division — every 3-4 years — to prevent the clump from becoming overly woody and unproductive.
Recommended gear: Best Insecticidal Soap: How Potassium Salts Kill Soft-Bodied Pests — our buyer's guide covering picks for every budget, ranked by Extension publication consensus and personal use.
Sources
- Penn State Extension — French tarragon
- NC State Extension — Artemisia dracunculus
- Cornell Cooperative Extension — Propagation techniques