Growing bay laurel outdoors and overwintering
*Laurus nobilis* -- true bay laurel -- is a Mediterranean evergreen shrub or tree that most North American gardeners grow in containers and overwinter indoors. It is a slow grower, woody, long-lived, and one of the most valuable culinary herbs: a single well-tended plant yields enough dried bay.
—- title: "Growing bay laurel outdoors and overwintering" slug: growing-bay-laurel hub: vegetables category: "Herb guide" description: "How to grow bay laurel (Laurus nobilis) as a container or in-ground plant, when and how to bring it indoors for winter in zones 5-7, and harvesting leaves for cooking." date: 2026-06-10 updated: 2026-06-10 author: "Thomas A." reading_time: 9 scientific: "Laurus nobilis" zones_min: 8 zones_max: 10 sun: "full sun to partial shade" —-
Laurus nobilis — true bay laurel — is a Mediterranean evergreen shrub or tree that most North American gardeners grow in containers and overwinter indoors. It is a slow grower, woody, long-lived, and one of the most valuable culinary herbs: a single well-tended plant yields enough dried bay leaves to last a household for years.
I don't grow bay laurel at my zone 7a Long Island plot. The combination of cold winters and container overwintering logistics has kept me from committing, though the plant is on my list. This guide is sourced from Extension publications.
Identification
True bay (Laurus nobilis) is the species used in cooking. Do not confuse it with:
- California bay (Umbellularia californica): Same family, stronger and more pungent flavor — often described as medicinal. Not interchangeable with L. nobilis in cooking.
- Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus): Toxic. Do not use for culinary purposes.
- Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia): Toxic. Completely different plant.
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, Laurus nobilis has glossy, dark-green, elliptical leaves, 2-4 inches long, with a characteristic aromatic scent when crushed.
USDA hardiness zones
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, L. nobilis is reliably hardy outdoors in USDA zones 8-10. It can survive brief periods to 10-20°F (-12 to -6°C) but sustained cold below 15°F causes significant dieback or death. In zones 5-7, grow in containers and bring indoors before the first hard frost.
In-ground plants in zone 7 borderline locations — sheltered south-facing walls, urban heat island zones — sometimes survive with heavy mulching, but this is unreliable enough that container culture is the better approach for most zone 7 gardeners.
Light requirements
Per NC State Extension, bay laurel grows best in full sun (6+ hours direct sun) outdoors. It tolerates partial shade (3-6 hours) but grows more slowly and may become somewhat open in structure. Indoors during winter, place in the brightest window available — south or west facing — or supplement with grow lights.
Container culture
Per Clemson HGIC, for container growing:
- Container size: Start young plants in a 5-gallon container. As the plant matures, step up container size every 3-4 years. A 15-gallon container supports a 4-5 foot specimen.
- Potting mix: Well-draining commercial potting mix amended with 20-25% perlite.
- Drainage: Containers must have drainage holes. Bay laurel grown in containers without drainage develops root rot within one to two seasons.
- Overwintering location: Per Clemson HGIC, bring indoors before nighttime temperatures drop below 20-25°F. A cool, bright location (45-55°F) — an unheated garage with a south window, a cool basement under grow lights — is preferable to a warm, dark space. Bay laurel is semi-dormant in winter and does not need warmth.
Watering
Per NC State Extension, bay laurel is drought tolerant once established outdoors. Water in-ground plants during extended dry spells (2+ weeks without rain) at 1 inch per week. Container plants need more frequent watering — check the top inch of soil and water when dry, approximately every 5-7 days outdoors in summer, every 10-14 days indoors in winter.
Overwatering in the container is the most common cause of decline. Bay laurel in a container with poor drainage will develop root rot that is often not apparent until the plant is wilting despite wet soil.
Soil requirements
Per Missouri Botanical Garden, bay laurel requires well-drained soil with pH 6.0-7.0. It tolerates slightly alkaline soil and lean conditions. Heavy clay or consistently wet sites will cause root problems.
Fertilizing
Per Clemson HGIC, container-grown bay laurel benefits from fertilization during the active growing season (April through August). Apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer (10-10-10) once in early spring and once in midsummer. Stop fertilizing in late summer; new tender growth that develops from fall fertilization is vulnerable to cold damage.
In-ground plants in zones 8-10 need minimal fertilization. A spring application of balanced fertilizer at the label rate is sufficient.
Harvesting bay leaves
Per NC State Extension, harvest individual leaves as needed once the plant is at least 2 years old and established. Pick fully mature, dark-green leaves from the outer portions of branches. Avoid stripping more than 25% of total foliage at any time.
Drying: Fresh bay leaves are pungent but can have a slightly bitter edge. Most culinary uses call for dried leaves. Per NC State, dry harvested leaves by laying them flat on a screen in a dark, well-ventilated space at room temperature for 1-2 weeks. Dried leaves lose most bitterness and develop a more complex, herbal flavor. Store in an airtight container away from light; potency is best within 12 months.
Pests: scale insects
Scale insects are the primary pest problem for bay laurel, particularly on overwintered indoor plants. Per UC IPM, bay laurel is susceptible to soft scales (Coccus hesperidum and related species), which appear as small brown bumps on stems and leaves. Signs include:
- Sticky honeydew deposits on leaves and surfaces below the plant
- Sooty mold (black coating) on leaves from fungal growth on honeydew
- Yellowing leaves; leaf drop
Management: Per UC IPM, light infestations can be controlled by scrubbing stems with a soft toothbrush dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol. For heavier infestations, horticultural oil spray applied in late winter before bringing the plant outdoors is effective. Inspect every plant thoroughly before bringing inside in fall — scale spreads readily between container plants indoors.
Other pests and diseases
**Psyllids (Trioza alacris):** Create irregular pitting and curling of new leaves. Per UC IPM, damage is cosmetic; affected leaves are still usable. No treatment necessary in most cases.
Powdery mildew: White coating on leaves, usually indoors in low-light conditions. Improve air circulation; move to brighter location.
Root rot: From overwatering or poor drainage. No effective treatment; improve drainage before replanting.
Common problems
| Symptom | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Sticky leaves, black coating | Scale insects and sooty mold | Treat with rubbing alcohol or horticultural oil |
| Yellow leaves, leaf drop (fall) | Normal semi-dormancy onset | Normal; reduce watering |
| Yellow leaves with wet soil | Root rot | Repot in fresh mix; improve drainage |
| Curled, pitted new leaves | Bay psyllid | Cosmetic; no action needed |
| Slow growth, pale leaves | Insufficient light or underfed | Brighter location; spring fertilizer |
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take for a bay laurel to be productive? Per Clemson HGIC, a young container-grown plant can provide a modest harvest of leaves within 2-3 years of purchase. For generous, regular harvesting, allow 5+ years. Bay laurel is a long-lived plant — well-tended specimens can grow for decades. The investment is worth making if you use bay regularly in cooking.
Can I grow bay laurel from seed? Per Missouri Botanical Garden, bay laurel can be grown from seed, but seed viability is low and germination is slow (1-3 months at 70°F). Most gardeners purchase established plants or root stem cuttings in summer. Cuttings (4-inch semi-hardwood tips taken in August) rooted in moist perlite under intermittent mist have a better success rate than seed.
What size container is appropriate for a bay laurel in long-term culture? Per Clemson HGIC, bay laurel is often kept in 15-20 gallon containers at maturity. In climates where the plant must be moved indoors annually, this creates a significant logistics challenge. Consider a plant dolly to move large containers, and plan the overwintering location before the plant outgrows easy handling.
Why are my bay leaves bitter when I cook with them? Per NC State Extension, fresh bay leaves contain compounds that are more bitter and pungent than dried leaves. The drying process degrades some volatile compounds and develops more mellow, complex aromatics. Always use dried bay leaves in cooking. If you are using properly dried leaves and still find them bitter, check that they are from L. nobilis and not California bay (Umbellularia californica), which has a much stronger and more medicinal flavor.
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Sources
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Laurus nobilis
- NC State Extension — Laurus nobilis
- Clemson HGIC — Bay laurel
- UC IPM — Scale insects and bay psyllid