Botrytis blight on tulips (tulip fire)

Tulip fire -- the common name for Botrytis blight of tulips -- produces exactly the appearance the name suggests: scorched, withered leaves and flowers as if the plant has been touched by flame. It is the most destructive disease of tulips, historically responsible for large losses in commercial.

—- title: "Botrytis blight on tulips (tulip fire)" slug: botrytis-on-tulips hub: problems category: "Disease-by-host" description: "Tulip fire destroys leaves, stems, and flowers in wet springs. Identify the scorched appearance, understand how the disease cycles through bulbs, and prevent it with proper planting and fungicide timing." date: 2026-06-10 updated: 2026-06-10 author: "Thomas A." reading_time: 8 —-

Tulip fire — the common name for Botrytis blight of tulips — produces exactly the appearance the name suggests: scorched, withered leaves and flowers as if the plant has been touched by flame. It is the most destructive disease of tulips, historically responsible for large losses in commercial bulb production and a consistent problem for home gardeners in cool, wet climates.

I grow daffodils rather than tulips at my Long Island property (deer pressure and the multi-year replanting cycle for good tulip performance have kept me away from them), so this guide draws on University Extension research and Royal Horticultural Society publications.

The pathogen

Tulip fire is caused by Botrytis tulipae, a host-specific species distinct from the generalist B. cinerea. Per RHS (Royal Horticultural Society), B. tulipae infects only tulips and a few closely related bulb genera. The fungus produces sclerotia that adhere to infected bulb surfaces and persist in soil; it also produces abundant airborne spores from sporulating infected tissue.

Per Cornell Cooperative Extension, the disease cycle begins with infected bulbs — either visible as lesions on the outer scales or invisible as latent infections — introduced to a planting site. Once established, the disease spreads rapidly through spore dispersal to neighboring plants.

Identification

Above-ground symptoms

Per Penn State Extension, tulip fire produces:

1. Scorched, distorted emerging shoots — the first symptom is often a twisted, stunted emerging shoot with the tip brown and bleached; this "blast" of emerging shoots is characteristic in years with cold, wet weather at emergence
2. Small, water-soaked lesions on leaves and stems that rapidly expand and coalesce into large bleached or tan-brown areas
3. Gray sporulation — under humid conditions, affected tissue produces the characteristic gray-brown fuzzy mass of Botrytis spores
4. Flower damage — flower petals develop small, rounded spots (often described as "fire spots") and flowers may brown and collapse before fully opening
5. Stem collapse — in severe infections, the stem collapses at or above the soil line

Bulb symptoms

Per RHS, infected bulbs show:

• Small, slightly sunken dark lesions on the outer bulb scales
• Hard, black sclerotia adhering to the outer scales — these look like small grit particles
• When cut open, infected bulbs reveal brown, rotted tissue that may extend into the basal plate

The sclerotia adhering to bulbs are the primary means by which the disease spreads between sites and seasons.

Confusion with late frost damage

Per Cornell Cooperative Extension, late frost damage to emerging tulip shoots produces a similar bleached, distorted appearance. The distinction: frost damage is typically uniform across all emerging shoots simultaneously and concentrated at the tips; Botrytis produces irregular spotting, gray sporulation, and spreading lesions. Frost-damaged shoots do not develop gray mold.

Disease cycle

Per Penn State Extension, the seasonal cycle is:

• At planting: Infected bulbs or sclerotia in soil from previous plantings are the starting inoculum
• Spring emergence: Spores from sclerotia and infected bulb tissue infect emerging shoots; cool, wet weather (below 60°F, 16°C) with high humidity maximizes infection
• During bloom period: Spores from sporulating tissue infect neighboring plants; petals are a prime infection site
• Post-season: The fungus colonizes dying leaves and stems, producing new sclerotia that adhere to bulbs or remain in soil
• Dormancy: Infected bulbs or soil-borne sclerotia persist until the following spring

Conditions that favor disease

Per RHS, the disease is most severe when:

• Springs are cool (45–60°F, 7–16°C) and persistently wet
• Plantings are dense with poor air circulation
• Infected bulbs are planted
• The same tulip planting site is used year after year

Management

Start with clean bulbs

Per Cornell Cooperative Extension, purchasing high-quality bulbs from reputable sources is the most important preventive step. Inspect bulbs before planting: reject any with dark lesions on the outer scales, soft spots, or grit-like particles (sclerotia) adhering to the surface. Discard infected bulbs rather than planting them.

Remove infected plants promptly

Per Penn State Extension, as soon as a plant shows tulip fire symptoms, remove the entire plant including all below-ground tissue. Place it directly into a bag without shaking — disturbing sporulating tissue releases spores onto neighboring plants. Dispose of infected material in the trash, not the compost.

Crop rotation

Per RHS, do not plant tulips in the same bed for at least 3 years after any fire outbreak. Sclerotia persist in soil and will infect new plantings. Rotating to unrelated plants (daffodils, alliums, annuals) allows sclerotia to die off between cycles.

Improve drainage and air circulation

Per Penn State Extension, plant tulip bulbs in well-drained soil — standing water around bulbs promotes disease. Space bulbs at the recommended distance (typically 5–6 times the bulb diameter apart) to allow air movement through emerging foliage.

Fungicide application

Per Cornell Cooperative Extension, in high-risk years (cool, wet springs) or in beds with a history of tulip fire, protective fungicide applications can reduce disease severity. Apply a fungicide labeled for Botrytis on ornamentals (thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, or copper-based products) at first emergence and repeat every 7–10 days through the bloom period.

Avoid overhead watering

Per RHS, use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep foliage dry. Water in the morning if overhead irrigation is necessary.

Fall bulb inspection

When digging tulip bulbs for storage (if replanting is the plan), inspect every bulb carefully. Per RHS, discard any bulbs showing lesions, sclerotia, or soft tissue. Store bulbs in cool, dry, well-ventilated conditions (65–70°F, 18–21°C) and inspect again before replanting.

Common problems table

Frequently Asked Questions

Is tulip fire the same as Botrytis on other plants?

Per RHS, no. Botrytis tulipae is a distinct, host-specific species that infects only tulips and a few closely related genera. The common gray mold of strawberries, peonies, and other plants is caused by the generalist B. cinerea.

My tulips look fine in the ground but develop spots as soon as the weather turns wet. Is this normal?

Per Penn State Extension, this is a classic description of tulip fire. The cool, wet weather that often accompanies tulip bloom in temperate climates creates peak conditions for B. tulipae. There is no way to prevent weather-driven disease entirely, but starting with clean bulbs and applying preventive fungicide before wet periods can limit severity.

Should I dig my tulip bulbs after the season?

Per RHS, in areas with persistent tulip fire pressure, lifting and inspecting bulbs each year is worthwhile. It allows identification and removal of infected bulbs before they inoculate the soil further. In low-pressure sites, bulbs can be left in the ground, but disease will build up over successive years if infected individuals are not removed.

Can daffodils planted nearby get tulip fire?

Per RHS, Botrytis tulipae does not infect daffodils. Daffodils are not susceptible. This is one practical reason some gardeners — including in my Long Island experience — find daffodils a lower-maintenance spring bulb than tulips in regions with cold, wet springs.

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Recommended gear: Best tulip cultivars that come back year after year — our buyer's guide covering picks for every budget, ranked by Extension publication consensus and personal use.

Sources

1. RHS (Royal Horticultural Society) — Tulip Fire
2. Penn State Extension — Botrytis Blight
3. Cornell Cooperative Extension — Bulb Disease Management