Lagerstroemia is a genus of trees and shrubs from Asia and Australia. Per Clemson HGIC, the species most commonly grown in North American landscapes is Lagerstroemia indica, the crepe myrtle (also spelled crape myrtle), along with its hybrids with L. fauriei. It is the dominant summer-flowering tree across the southeastern United States, producing panicles of ruffled flowers in white, pink, lavender, or red from June through September.
I don't grow crepe myrtle in Melville, Long Island — it is marginal in zone 7a, dies back in most winters, and the deer browse the new growth. The guidance below is sourced from Clemson HGIC, NC State Extension, and USDA/USNA cultivar records.
The Indian Tribe series (US National Arboretum)
The most important cultivar development in crepe myrtle history was the USNA breeding program that hybridized L. indica with L. fauriei (Japanese crepe myrtle) to introduce powdery mildew resistance, which is the primary disease of L. indica in humid climates. Per USDA Agricultural Research Service, the hybrid offspring were named for Native American tribes and introduced starting in the 1960s through the 1990s.
Large tree cultivars (20—30 ft)
- 'Natchez' — white flowers, cinnamon-colored exfoliating bark; 25—30 ft; per Clemson HGIC, probably the most widely planted crepe myrtle in the US; powdery mildew resistant; zones 6b—9
- 'Muskogee' — lavender-pink flowers; 20—25 ft; good mildew resistance; per NC State Extension, one of the more cold-tolerant large cultivars
- 'Tuscarora' — bright coral-pink flowers; 20—25 ft; per Clemson HGIC, fall color is orange-red, one of the best in the tribe series; good mildew resistance; zones 7—9
Stop fungal disease early
Neem oil suppresses powdery mildew, black spot, and rust when sprayed at first sign. Cheaper than copper-based fungicides and safe on veg. Read our full pick.
Medium tree cultivars (10—20 ft)
- 'Catawba' — dark purple flowers; 10—15 ft; good mildew resistance; per USDA ARS, one of the standard medium-sized Indian Tribe selections; zones 6b—9
- 'Comanche' — coral-pink flowers; 10—15 ft; per Clemson HGIC, excellent mildew resistance and glossy dark green foliage; zones 7—9
- 'Sioux' — bright pink flowers; 10—15 ft; per USDA ARS, among the best mildew-resistant medium cultivars; zones 6b—9
- 'Cherokee' — red flowers; 10—15 ft; per Missouri Botanical Garden, one of the best red-flowered crepe myrtles for mildew resistance
- 'Pecos' — clear pink; 5—9 ft; useful bridge between medium and small sizes
Compact and dwarf selections (under 8 ft)
Compact crepe myrtles derived from further L. indica breeding, often without L. fauriei parentage — which means mildew resistance is more variable.
- 'Acoma' — white flowers; semi-weeping habit; 10 ft tall, 10 ft wide; per USDA ARS, good mildew resistance
- 'Hopi' — light pink; 7—8 ft; per Clemson HGIC, one of the better compact, mildew-resistant selections
- 'Zuni' — medium lavender; 5—7 ft; compact upright habit; mildew resistant
- 'Chickasaw' — 2—3 ft; pink; dwarf; per NC State Extension, one of the smallest cultivars; used in containers and mass plantings
Commercial series (later introductions)
Breeding programs at commercial nurseries produced further cultivars after the National Arboretum series, with more varied flower colors, darker foliages, and semi-dwarf habits.
Black Diamond series (Star Roses and Plants)
Red, rose, pink, lavender, and white flowers on dark-foliaged plants, 8—12 ft. Per NC State Extension cultivar notes, the dark foliage is a marketing distinction; mildew resistance varies by color selection. 'Best Red' is the standard red in this series.
Dynamite series
'Dynamite' — introduced by Tennessee commercial nursery Wayne Gardens — produces bright cherry-red flowers on a 20-ft tree. Per Clemson HGIC, this is one of the most reliable true-red large crepe myrtles in commerce; zones 7—9.
Cold hardiness by zone
| Zone | What succeeds |
|---|---|
| Zone 9—10 | Full tree forms; 25—30 ft specimens; all cultivars |
| Zone 7b—8 | Indian Tribe series through 'Natchez'; full size trees |
| Zone 7a | Larger trees may die back to the ground in harsh winters but regrow; 'Hopi', 'Acoma', smaller forms more likely to survive as multi-stem shrubs |
| Zone 6b | Marginal for all L. indica; dwarf forms may survive winter as herbaceous perennials; 'Catawba' and 'Muskogee' most frequently cited for zone 6b survival |
| Zone 6a and colder | Not reliably hardy as woody plants |
Per UF IFAS Extension, L. fauriei hybrids (the Indian Tribe series) are slightly hardier than straight L. indica selections.
Crape murder: what the research says
"Crape murder" — topping crepe myrtle to stubs each winter — is so widespread in the South that many homeowners believe it is correct care. It is not. Per Clemson HGIC:
- Topping does not increase flowering and can reduce it
- Stubbed branches produce dense clusters of weak, water-sprout growth that eventually produces more stubs
- The characteristic knobby "knuckles" that develop are permanent and aesthetically poor
- Topping is never necessary and is not recommended by any Cooperative Extension program
The correct pruning approach: remove only crossing branches, suckers from the base, and branches smaller than a pencil in diameter, per NC State Extension. Do this in late winter before new growth begins.
Common problems
| Symptom | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| White powdery coating on leaves and flower panicles | Powdery mildew (Erysiphe lagerstroemiae) | Replace susceptible cultivars with Indian Tribe series; improve air circulation |
| Black sooty coating on leaves, especially lower canopy | Sooty mold from aphid or scale honeydew | Treat infestation with horticultural oil; sooty mold clears as infestation resolves |
| No flowers or sparse flowers | Topping removed flower buds; or insufficient sun | Stop topping; ensure 6+ hrs sun |
| Knobby branch ends producing dense weak growth | Historic topping | No reversal; can attempt renovation over several years by selectively removing stubs |
Frequently asked questions
What is the most cold-hardy crepe myrtle? Among large cultivars, 'Muskogee' and 'Catawba' are frequently cited as the most cold-tolerant, surviving in zone 6b with protection, per Clemson HGIC. The dwarf forms ('Hopi', 'Zuni') are better bets for zone 6 because even when the woody stems die back, the root system survives and produces new growth as an annual-style dieback shrub.
Why doesn't my crepe myrtle bloom? Most commonly: insufficient sun (crepe myrtle needs 6—8 hours of direct sun), or topping removed flower buds, per NC State Extension. Less commonly: excessive nitrogen fertilizer producing foliage at the expense of flowers.
What is the best white crepe myrtle? 'Natchez' is the most widely recommended white, per Clemson HGIC — excellent mildew resistance, outstanding exfoliating bark, and a true tree habit. 'Acoma' is the best white compact form.
When should I plant crepe myrtle? Spring or fall in most of the South. Per UF IFAS Extension, fall planting in zones 8—9 allows root establishment before summer heat. In zone 7 or colder, spring planting is preferable to allow maximum establishment before the first winter.
Sources
- Clemson HGIC — Crape myrtle
- NC State Extension — Lagerstroemia indica
- NC State Extension — Lagerstroemia 'Muskogee'
- Missouri Botanical Garden — Lagerstroemia 'Cherokee'
- USDA Agricultural Research Service — National Arboretum crepe myrtle breeding
- UF IFAS Extension — Crape myrtle