Shade perennials for dry shade and deep shade

Most gardeners learn shade gardening the hard way — by planting sun-loving perennials in the wrong spot and watching them slowly fail, or by being told that "hostas grow anywhere" and discovering that deep, dry shade und

Most gardeners learn shade gardening the hard way — by planting sun-loving perennials in the wrong spot and watching them slowly fail, or by being told that "hostas grow anywhere" and discovering that deep, dry shade under a Norway maple is a more specific challenge than that phrase implies. The shade under a maple is not the same as the shade on the north side of a house, and it is not the same as the dappled light under an open-canopied birch.

This guide makes the distinction that most plant lists skip: dry shade versus moist shade, and within dry shade, dense competitive root shade versus light structural shade.

I grow hosta and astilbe in my zone 7a Long Island garden. The hosta is under a crabapple on the north side of the house — partial shade, reasonable moisture, good performance. I made the mistake of trying astilbe in the same bed one summer and learned quickly why Missouri Botanical Garden calls astilbe intolerant of dry shade.

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The two types of shade

Moist shade

Moist shade is the version that allows the most gardening. It includes:

• North-facing beds that receive no direct sun but have adequate moisture
• The east side of structures (morning sun only)
• Open woodland with a high canopy and little root competition
• Areas with consistent irrigation or high natural rainfall

Most shade perennials labeled "shade" are really rated for moist shade. Astilbe is the clearest example. Per Missouri Botanical Garden's shade FAQ: "Astilbes come in white, red, and pink. They will not tolerate dry shade. Keep them watered well."

Dry shade

Dry shade is the more difficult condition. It is most often found:

• Under shallow-rooted trees: Norway maple, beech, large surface-rooting oaks, silver maple
• Close to the south-facing base of large trees where root competition is intense
• Under roof overhangs on the north side of structures (no rain penetrates)

Per Missouri Botanical Garden's dry shade plant guide: "Few, if any, plants prefer to grow in dry soil in shade but some are able to tolerate these conditions once established and still look presentable. None will survive extended periods of drought without watering."

This is an important clarification. "Dry shade tolerant" is not the same as "drought-proof in shade." These plants survive dry shade better than most; they still need supplemental water during extended dry spells.