How to Plant Garlic: Fall Timing by Zone, Depth, Care and Harvest

At a glance

When to plant garlic (timing by USDA zone)

Garlic is planted in fall because the cloves need time to root before winter and a long growing season to size up. Per NC State Extension, cloves need at least 4–6 weeks to get established before the ground freezes. Clemson HGIC notes that garlic must be planted in fall to develop fully, because leaf growth stops once bulbing starts in response to longer, warmer spring days, and the size of the head depends on how much leaf growth the plant makes first. Penn State Extension, Cornell Cooperative Extension and University of Minnesota Extension all recommend fall planting.

The usual target is 4–6 weeks before the ground freezes. University of Minnesota Extension puts it as one or two weeks after the first killing frost; Penn State Extension says at least three weeks before the ground freezes. Planting too late leaves too little time for roots to establish.

These windows are approximate, derived from the Extension rules above. Your local first-frost date is the best anchor: look it up with the frost date lookup. Mid-October falls inside the window for most of zones 5–7. Garlic fits into the same fall schedule as other fall-planted crops; see the fall planting guide.

Choose seed garlic: hardneck or softneck

Buy garlic sold for planting from a garden center or seed supplier. University of Minnesota Extension and Ohio State Extension both advise against planting grocery-store garlic; Ohio State notes it may have been treated to prevent sprouting. Each clove grows into one head, so a pound of seed garlic goes further than you might expect. Plant the largest outer cloves: Clemson HGIC notes larger cloves yield larger bulbs. Use the small inner cloves in the kitchen.

Hardneck vs. softneck in brief: Hardneck garlic forms a stiff central stalk and a curling flower stem (the scape), has fewer, larger cloves, and stores for a shorter time. Softneck garlic has no scape, has more and smaller cloves, braids easily and keeps longer. Clemson HGIC notes that some hardnecks, such as Rocamboles, do poorly in warm climates, while softneck Creole types grow easily in the South. The full comparison of flavor groups, storage life and climate fit is in hardneck vs. softneck garlic.

How to plant garlic, step by step

1. Pick a sunny, well-drained spot. Garlic needs full sun and loose soil. Waterlogged soil over winter rots cloves. Rotate: avoid planting where onions, leeks or garlic grew recently, to limit soil-borne disease.
2. Prepare the bed. Loosen the soil and work in compost. Ohio State Extension gives a pH range of 6.0–7.0, with 6.0–6.5 ideal. A soil test is the reliable way to know what to add; see how to test soil.
3. Separate the cloves just before planting. Break the heads apart shortly before planting and leave the papery skin on each clove. Discard any soft, moldy or discolored cloves.
4. Plant pointed end up. Push each clove in with the flat root end down, so that about 2 inches of soil covers the tip. Penn State Extension recommends at least 2 inches; University of Minnesota and NC State Extension plant 2–3 inches deep. In South Carolina, Clemson HGIC covers cloves about 1 inch deep.
5. Space 6 inches apart, rows 12 inches apart. That matches University of Minnesota Extension's 6-inch in-row spacing and Penn State's roughly 1-foot rows. NC State Extension uses 6–8 inches; Utah State notes that dense planting shrinks bulbs unless water and nutrients are adequate.
6. Water once. Soak the bed after planting to settle the soil. Some leaf tips may show before winter. That is normal; Ohio State Extension aims for first leaves to emerge before freezing weather.
7. Mulch. Cover the bed with 3–4 inches of clean straw or shredded leaves, as University of Minnesota Extension recommends. Mulch protects the cloves over winter and smothers spring weeds.

Spring and early-summer care

• Mulch: Leave it in place in spring; the shoots grow through it. Pull it back only if the soil stays cold and wet.
• Fertilizer: Garlic needs nitrogen during spring leaf growth, because leaf size determines bulb size. Side-dress with a nitrogen source at label rates in spring as growth resumes. University of Minnesota Extension advises no nitrogen after the first week of May in Minnesota, because late nitrogen can delay bulbing. For what the numbers on a bag mean, see fertilizer numbers explained.
• Water: Per University of Minnesota Extension, provide at least 1 inch per week during the growing season, and stop watering two weeks before harvest. Clemson HGIC notes bulbs stay small in excessively dry soil.
• Weeds: Keep the bed weeded. Garlic's narrow, upright leaves don't shade out weeds, and it competes poorly with them.
• Scapes (hardneck only): In late spring, hardnecks send up a curling flower stalk. Snap or cut it off once it starts to curl, as University of Minnesota Extension advises; Clemson HGIC reports that leaving scapes on reduces bulb size by an average of 30 percent. Scapes are edible: sauté, grill or blend them into pesto.

Silvery streaks on the leaves usually mean onion thrips; see thrips on onions, which covers garlic as well. Yellowing plants with white fluffy growth and tiny black specks at the base point to white rot. That soil-borne fungus can persist, so remove the plants and stop growing alliums in that spot.

When to harvest garlic

Timing matters more at harvest than at planting. Dig too early and the cloves are small. Dig too late and, as Penn State Extension warns, the wrappers deteriorate or split open, which shortens storage life.

• Main sign: Harvest when the lower leaves have turned brown but about half of the leaves are still green. NC State Extension says to harvest when about half the leaves have started turning brown; Penn State Extension wants at least four leaves still partly green.
• Test dig first: Lift one plant. A ready bulb is plump, the cloves have filled out, and it has several intact wrappers.
• Typical dates: May–June in North Carolina (NC State Extension) and late June to late July in Minnesota (University of Minnesota Extension).

How to harvest

1. Stop watering about two weeks ahead, and pick a dry day.
2. Loosen the soil beside the row with a garden fork. Don't pull plants by the stems, which snap and leave the bulb behind.
3. Lift the bulbs, brush off loose soil gently, and leave the leaves and roots on for curing.
4. Keep bulbs out of direct sun, which can scald them.

Curing and storing garlic

Curing dries the necks and outer wrappers so the bulbs keep. Hang plants in bunches or spread them in a single layer somewhere warm, dry, shaded and airy, such as a garage, shed or covered porch with good air circulation. Leave them for two to four weeks (Clemson and Ohio State say two to three, Minnesota three to four), until the necks are dry and the wrappers are papery.

Then trim the roots and tops; Oregon State Extension clips them about 1 inch from the bulb. Braid softnecks if you like. Store bulbs somewhere cool and dry with air movement, not in plastic bags. Per Oregon State University Extension, the ideal storage temperature is 32–38°F at under 70% humidity, and garlic sprouts fastest between 40 and 60°F. A cool, dry, well-ventilated spot is fine for home use. Oregon State gives up to 6 months of storage for hardnecks and up to 9 months for softnecks in the right conditions. Set aside your biggest, firmest heads to plant in the fall.

Spring planting, containers and other situations

Spring planting: You can plant garlic in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked, but Ohio State and Utah State Extension both note that spring-planted cloves produce smaller heads. Fall planting gives better results.

Containers: Use a deep pot with drainage holes, and plant at the same depth and spacing as in the ground. Soil in pots freezes harder than garden soil, so in cold zones sink the container into the ground or move it to an unheated garage over winter. Watering is the main chore in spring.

Mild-winter regions: Where winters are mild, choose softneck types and plant from late October to December, as NC State Extension advises for North Carolina. Expect a May–June harvest.

Common mistakes

Frequently asked

When should you plant garlic?

Plant in fall, about 4–6 weeks before the ground freezes, per NC State Extension. That means roughly mid-September to October in zones 3–5, October to mid-November in zones 6–7, and late October to December in zones 8–9. Fall planting gives the cloves time to root before winter.

How deep do you plant garlic?

Plant each clove pointed end up at least 2 inches deep, per Penn State Extension; University of Minnesota and NC State Extension use 2–3 inches. Clemson HGIC plants about 1 inch deep in South Carolina. Then cover the bed with 3–4 inches of straw mulch.

How far apart should garlic be planted?

Space cloves 6 inches apart in rows about 12 inches apart, or plant on a 6-inch grid in a raised bed. Utah State Extension notes that dense planting shrinks bulbs; NC State Extension spaces cloves 6–8 inches apart.

Can you plant garlic from the grocery store?

It may sprout, but University of Minnesota Extension and Ohio State Extension advise against it. Ohio State notes store garlic may be treated to prevent sprouting. Seed garlic from a garden supplier is the reliable choice.

Can you plant garlic in the spring?

Yes, as soon as the soil can be worked, but Ohio State and Utah State Extension both note that spring plantings produce smaller heads. Fall planting gives larger bulbs.

When is garlic ready to harvest?

Garlic is ready when about half the leaves have started turning brown (NC State Extension); Penn State wants at least four leaves still partly green. That is May–June in North Carolina and late June to late July in Minnesota. Dig one test bulb first and check that the cloves have filled out and the wrappers are intact.

How long does garlic take to grow?

Fall-planted garlic takes about 8–9 months: planted in October, harvested the next June or July. Per Clemson HGIC, bulbs form in spring in response to longer days and warmer temperatures.

Should you cut garlic scapes?

Yes, on hardneck garlic. Removing the curling flower stalk sends more energy to the bulb; Clemson HGIC reports bulbs average 30 percent smaller when scapes are left on. The scapes are good to eat. Softneck garlic doesn't produce scapes.

Sources

1. Allium sativum (Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox), NC State Extension
2. Growing garlic in home gardens, University of Minnesota Extension
3. Growing Garlic in the Garden, Ohio State University Extension (CFAES)
4. Growing Garlic – Fall Planting, Penn State Extension
5. Growing and Using Garlic, Penn State Extension
6. Time to Plant Garlic, Cornell Cooperative Extension of St. Lawrence County
7. How to Grow Garlic in Your Garden, Utah State University Extension
8. Onion, Leek, Shallot & Garlic, Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC
9. Preserving garlic (SP 50-645), Oregon State University Extension

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