At a glance
| Botanical name | Diospyros virginiana (American); D. kaki (Asian, Japanese or Oriental) |
|---|---|
| Family | Ebenaceae (ebony family) |
| Type | Deciduous fruit tree |
| USDA zones | American: 4–9. Asian: about 7–10 |
| Mature size | American: 35–60 ft (Morton Arboretum; NC State gives up to 80 ft). Asian: about 20–30 ft (NC State) |
| Light | Full sun for best fruiting; both tolerate part shade |
| Soil | American: tolerates poor, dry, clay and alkaline soils. Asian: loamy, well-drained soil, pH 6.0–6.5. Neither tolerates standing water |
| Pollination | American: usually separate male and female trees. Asian: can set seedless fruit without pollination |
| Fruit | Ripens in fall into early winter; American about 1–2 in., Asian 3–4 in. |
| Native range | American: central and eastern US. Asian: eastern Asia and India |
| Fall color | Yellow, orange or reddish-purple leaves |
American vs Asian persimmon
Two species account for nearly all persimmons grown in the US, and they differ in hardiness, size and fruit:
| American (D. virginiana) | Asian (D. kaki) | |
|---|---|---|
| Hardiness | USDA zones 4–9 | About zones 7–10 |
| Size | 35–60 ft; mature trees send up root suckers | About 20–30 ft |
| Fruit size | About 1–2 in. | 3–4 in. |
| Astringency | Astringent until fully soft | Astringent or non-astringent, depending on cultivar |
| Pollination | Male and female trees; females fruit | Can set seedless fruit without pollination |
| Native? | Yes: central and eastern US | No: native to eastern Asia and India |
| Best for | Cold regions, wildlife and native plantings | Large fresh-eating fruit in mild climates |
Hardiness and size per NC State Extension and the Morton Arboretum. NC State notes Asian persimmons do not tolerate temperatures below 10°F, so they are a gamble at the cold edge of their range; American persimmon is the reliable choice where winters are colder.
How to identify a wild persimmon tree
Wild American persimmons grow along forest edges and in disturbed areas and old fields across the eastern US, per the Chesapeake Bay Program, which notes the tree can reach 60 feet but often stays much smaller in the wild. Per the Morton Arboretum, the Chesapeake Bay Program and NC State Extension, look for:
- Bark: the best year-round clue. Mature bark is thick and dark gray, divided by furrows into square blocks like a checkerboard, often called alligator bark.
- Leaves: alternate, simple, broadly oblong and pointed, 2–6 inches long, with smooth or slightly toothed edges and paler undersides; yellow to reddish-purple in fall.
- Flowers: small, fragrant, white to greenish-yellow flowers in May and June, easy to miss under the leaves. Female flowers are solitary and bell- or urn-shaped; male flowers are tubular and grow in small clusters, usually on separate trees.
- Fruit: round, yellowish to pale orange fruit about 1–2 inches across with an enlarged cap (calyx) at the base, ripening from September to December and often hanging after the leaves drop.
- Habit: mature trees send up root suckers, so persimmons often grow in groups.
Look-alikes
| Tree | How to tell it from persimmon |
|---|---|
| Black gum (Nyssa sylvatica) | Per NC State, similar glossy oval leaves and blocky bark, but the fruit is a small (under ½ inch) bluish-black drupe, and fall color is often scarlet |
| Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) | Per NC State, blocky bark, but leaves are opposite with veins that arch toward the tip; fruit is small, shiny and red |
For a broader approach to bark ID, see how to identify a tree by bark.
Astringent vs non-astringent persimmons
Astringency is the puckering, mouth-drying effect of soluble tannins in unripe persimmons. It is the most important thing to know before you buy or pick one.
- Astringent types (American persimmon, plus Asian cultivars such as 'Hachiya' and 'Saijo') are inedible until the fruit is fully soft. NC State describes American persimmon fruit as astringent unless overripe, and the Chesapeake Bay Program notes it can only be eaten fully ripe.
- Non-astringent types (Asian cultivars such as 'Fuyu', 'Jiro' and 'Izu', per UF/IFAS) can be eaten firm and crisp once fully colored.
- Buy small, container-grown trees and plant them in their permanent spot. Avoid moving a tree once it is in the ground.
- Choose full sun and good drainage. Persimmons tolerate many soils, but University of Arizona Extension warns that poor drainage or standing water causes fruit drop and declining vigor.
- Space for mature width: NC State gives 15–25 feet for Asian persimmons and 20–35 feet for American.
- Disturb roots as little as possible, set the tree at nursery depth, water deeply and mulch.
- Water: water young trees through dry spells while they establish. Established American persimmons are drought tolerant, per the Morton Arboretum.
- Fertilizer: University of Arizona Extension says little or no fertilizer is needed; young trees should make about a foot of leader growth a year.
- Pruning: NC State notes persimmons do not need annual pruning like other fruit trees. Prune while dormant only to improve structure and remove broken, dead or damaged limbs. Heavy crops can bend limbs, so UF/IFAS and Arizona Extension suggest thinning heavy fruit clusters, which also evens out yearly bearing.
- Suckers: both species send up root suckers. NC State advises removing them promptly unless you want a naturalized grove.
- Non-astringent Asian types ('Fuyu', 'Jiro'): per UF/IFAS, harvest by color, once the green is gone, while still firm. Cut rather than pull so the cap stays on; UF/IFAS notes calyx separation causes uneven ripening and poor storage.
- Astringent Asian types ('Hachiya', 'Saijo'): pick just before or during the soft stage. Arizona Extension notes fruit can be picked firm and softened indoors; UF/IFAS lists ethylene gas, burying the fruit in dry rice for 3–5 days, or freezing for 24 hours as ways to remove astringency.
- American persimmons: ripe fruit is fully soft. NC State notes it can stay on the tree after the leaves fall, so gather it as it softens or drops.
- Fruit drop: Arizona Extension links it to poor drainage; NC State notes dropped fruit can be messy.
- Scale insects and mealybugs: NC State lists both for Asian persimmon; see armored vs soft scale.
- Leaf spot: NC State lists it for both species; UF/IFAS names Cercospora and Botryosphaeria as major production problems in Florida, and early leaf drop can delay or stop ripening.
- Birds and wildlife: raccoons, opossums, foxes, turkeys, crows and many songbirds eat ripe fruit, per UF/IFAS and the Chesapeake Bay Program.
- Diospyros virginiana, NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
- Diospyros kaki, NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
- Persimmon | Diospyros virginiana, The Morton Arboretum
- American Persimmon (field guide), Chesapeake Bay Program
- Persimmons (Backyard Gardener #220), University of Arizona Cooperative Extension
- Japanese Persimmon Cultivars in Florida (SP101/MG242), UF/IFAS Extension
Per University of Arizona Extension, 'Hachiya' has large, cone-shaped fruit that is very astringent until completely ripe, while 'Fuyu' has medium, somewhat square fruit that is non-astringent while firm. UF/IFAS describes 'Fuyu' as oblate and weakly four-sided. Do not bite into a firm 'Hachiya'.
Does frost sweeten persimmons? The folk rule says to wait for frost, and the Morton Arboretum describes American persimmon fruit as edible after the first frost. The reliable test is softness: eat astringent persimmons only when they are fully soft.
Choosing a persimmon
| Your situation | Best choice |
|---|---|
| Zones 4–6, or you want a native tree | American persimmon, ideally a grafted named cultivar such as 'Meader', 'Prok' or 'Morris Burton' (all listed by NC State) |
| Zones 7–10, crisp fruit for fresh eating | Non-astringent Asian cultivar such as 'Fuyu' or 'Jiro' |
| Zones 7–10, soft fruit for baking and drying | Astringent Asian cultivar such as 'Hachiya' or 'Saijo' |
| Small yard | Asian persimmon; American persimmon is tall and suckers |
A seedling American persimmon may turn out to be male, and you won't know until it flowers; the Morton Arboretum notes the native species is not readily available in nurseries, but several selected cultivars are. Asian persimmons are grafted; UF/IFAS notes American persimmon is one rootstock in use and that rootstock can affect fruit set and ripening; see budding and grafting if you want to graft your own.
Pollination
Per NC State and the Chesapeake Bay Program, American persimmon trees are usually either male or female, so a fruiting tree needs a male within pollinating range; wild trees in the neighborhood can fill that role. Asian persimmons can set seedless fruit without pollination, so one tree is enough, though NC State suggests planting more than one cultivar for larger yields. Per UF/IFAS, in pollination-variant cultivars the flesh around the seeds turns dark and streaked when fruit is pollinated. For other fruit trees that need partners, see fruit tree pollination pairs.
How to plant a persimmon tree
Persimmons form a deep taproot, and both NC State and the Morton Arboretum say they are difficult to transplant. That shapes how you plant:
Step-by-step planting basics are in how to plant a tree.
Persimmon tree care
How long until a persimmon fruits?
Per NC State, grafted American persimmons need about 3 years to bear, seedlings 4–9 years, and trees may take up to 10 years to reach full production. NC State says Asian persimmons need to be 4–6 years old before they fruit, and Arizona Extension notes trees may take about 7 years. UF/IFAS notes young trees may crop erratically, and a heavy crop one year can mean a smaller one the next.
Harvesting persimmons
Persimmons ripen from fall into early winter; NC State lists American persimmon fruit from September to December.
Pests and problems
Persimmons have fewer pest problems than most fruit trees, which is a big reason to grow them. Watch for:
Common mistakes
| Mistake | Why it matters | Do this instead |
|---|---|---|
| Biting into a firm astringent persimmon | Water-soluble tannins make it intensely puckering | Eat astringent types only when fully soft; eat 'Fuyu' types firm |
| Planting an Asian persimmon in zone 5–6 | NC State says Asian persimmons do not tolerate temperatures below 10°F | Plant American persimmon in cold zones |
| Moving an established tree | The deep taproot makes transplanting difficult (NC State, Morton Arboretum) | Plant small container trees in their final spot |
| Planting in a poorly drained spot | Arizona Extension links standing water to fruit drop and declining vigor | Choose a well-drained site; fertilize little or not at all |
| Planting seedling American persimmons for fruit | A seedling may be male and never fruit, and takes 4–9 years to bear | Buy grafted named cultivars, or plant several and keep the females |
Frequently asked
What does a persimmon tree look like?
American persimmon is a medium to tall tree with oval, mostly smooth-edged leaves and thick, dark gray bark broken into square blocks like a checkerboard. In fall it carries round orange fruit with an enlarged cap, often hanging after the leaves drop. Asian persimmons are smaller trees with much bigger fruit, 3 to 4 inches across.
What is the difference between American and Asian persimmons?
American persimmon is a native, very cold-hardy tree (zones 4–9) with small, astringent fruit that must be fully soft to eat. Asian persimmon is a smaller tree for about zones 7–10 with large fruit, and some Asian cultivars such as 'Fuyu' are non-astringent and eaten firm.
How long does it take a persimmon tree to bear fruit?
Per NC State, grafted American persimmons need about 3 years and seedlings 4 to 9 years, with full production taking up to 10 years. Asian persimmons need to be 4 to 6 years old before they fruit. A seedling American persimmon may also turn out to be a male tree that never fruits.
Do you need two persimmon trees to get fruit?
For American persimmon, usually yes: female trees need a male nearby, though wild trees may supply pollen. Asian persimmons can set seedless fruit without pollination, so one tree is enough, though NC State suggests more than one cultivar for bigger yields.
When should you prune a persimmon tree?
Prune while the tree is dormant, and keep it light. NC State notes persimmons do not need annual pruning like other fruit trees, so prune only to improve structure and remove broken, dead or crossing branches, and thin heavy fruit clusters to protect limbs.
How big does a persimmon tree get?
American persimmon typically reaches 35 to 60 feet per the Morton Arboretum, and NC State gives a range up to 80 feet; it also sends up root suckers. Asian persimmons are smaller, about 20 to 30 feet.
Can you grow a persimmon tree from seed?
Yes, but seedlings will not match the parent's fruit, take 4 to 9 years to bear per NC State, and American persimmon seedlings may be male. Named cultivars are grafted so fruit type and sex are known.