Mulberry Tree: How to Identify, Grow and Harvest Mulberries

Morus rubra

Mulberries are among the easiest fruit trees to grow. The hard part is knowing which species you have, and where the falling fruit will land.

Specimen labelMorus rubra
USDA zones4–934567891011
LightFull sun, part shade
Height30–50 ft
NativeNorth America

At a glance

Botanical nameMorus rubra (red), M. alba (white), M. nigra (black)
FamilyMoraceae (mulberry family)
TypeDeciduous tree; most trees are either male or female
USDA zonesRed 4–9, white 4–8 per NC State; black mulberry is less cold-hardy than red
Mature sizeTypically 30–50 ft tall (NC State gives up to 60 ft) with a broad, rounded crown
LightFull sun to part shade; fruits best in sun
SoilRed: rich, moist, well-drained soil. White: tolerates drought and a wide range of soils, including alkaline
FruitBlackberry-like fruit about ½–1½ in. long; ripens late spring to midsummer over a few weeks
Native rangeRed: southeastern Canada to the central and eastern US. White: Asia
Invasive statusWhite mulberry is naturalized across the US and regulated in Wisconsin, Indiana and Ohio; it hybridizes with native red mulberry
WildlifeFruit is heavily eaten by birds

What a mulberry tree is

Mulberries (Morus) are deciduous trees in the same family as figs. Three species matter to North American gardeners:

  • Red mulberry (Morus rubra): native from southeastern Canada through the central and eastern US, growing in bottomland woods, fencerows, old fields and vacant lots, with fruit that ripens from red to deep purple-black. NC State and Alabama Extension both note how heavily birds and other wildlife use the fruit.
  • White mulberry (Morus alba): native to Asia and introduced in colonial times as food for silkworms, now naturalized across the country. Per University of Minnesota Extension, its fruit ranges from white to pink to deep purple, so fruit color does not identify it.
  • Black mulberry (Morus nigra): a third, non-native species; NC State notes it is less cold-hardy than red mulberry selections such as 'Travis'.

White and red mulberry cross readily, so many backyard and roadside mulberries are hybrids, which makes identification harder.

Red vs white mulberry: how to tell them apart

NC State, Alabama Extension and University of Minnesota Extension all point to the leaf surface as the most reliable field mark:

FeatureRed mulberry (native)White mulberry (introduced)
Leaf surfaceRough on top; fine, soft hairs underneathGlossy and smooth on top; usually hairless underneath
Leaf shapeHeart-shaped, unlobed or with up to 3 lobes (rarely 4); lobed leaves are more common on new shootsUnlobed, mitten-shaped or irregularly lobed (UMN: 2 to 7 lobes), often on the same tree
Fruit colorReddish, maturing to dark purpleWhite, pink or deep purple: not diagnostic
Where it growsBottomland woods, fencerows, old fields, vacant lotsFields, forest margins, roadsides and other disturbed ground

Both species have toothed leaves, milky sap in leaves and twigs, and leaves that vary widely in shape. A tree with intermediate traits may be a hybrid. For other trees with lobed leaves, the leaf ID key narrows the options.

Mulberry look-alikes

  • Paper mulberry (Broussonetia papyrifera): per Alabama Extension, strongly fuzzy leaves and stems, and fruit that does not resemble red or white mulberry. A separate non-native species that can be invasive.
  • Fig (Ficus carica): similar lobed leaves and milky sap, but much larger leaves, smooth gray bark and pear-shaped fruit. See the fig tree guide.

Is white mulberry invasive?

Yes, in many places. Per the Extension invasive-species resource, white mulberry invades disturbed areas throughout the United States and displaces native species, with birds and other wildlife spreading the seed. University of Minnesota Extension notes it often outcompetes native mulberry populations and is regulated as invasive in Wisconsin, Indiana and Ohio (though not in Minnesota). It also hybridizes with native red mulberry, which Alabama Extension says dilutes the native stock.

Before planting any mulberry, check your state's invasive plant list. If you want a mulberry for fruit or wildlife:

  • Choose native red mulberry from a nursery that sells true Morus rubra, not a hybrid or white mulberry.
  • Consider other native fruit trees with similar wildlife value, such as pawpaw or American persimmon.
  • Pull white mulberry seedlings while they are small; NC State calls hand-pulling young seedlings the best management. For larger trees, University of Minnesota Extension points to its guidance on controlling unwanted trees and shrubs.

Fruitless mulberry: shade tree with a pollen problem

A "fruitless mulberry" is a male white mulberry. Per University of Arizona Extension, male trees produce no fruit and were planted in the Southwest for dense shade and heat tolerance, as a cleaner alternative to messy female trees. The trade-off is pollen: Arizona Extension lists fruitless mulberry among allergy offenders, with high pollen in February and March, and notes allergy sufferers now feel it causes more problems than it solves.

Some cities regulate mulberries for that reason. The City of Albuquerque's Pollen Control Ordinance, for example, prohibits the sale and planting of all mulberry trees in the city. If you live in the arid Southwest, check local rules before buying one. Elsewhere, consider whether a fast-growing tree with heavy pollen is the right shade tree at all; see fast-growing shade trees for the trade-offs.

Varieties

Many mulberries sold for fruit are white mulberry or red-white hybrids. NC State's plant toolbox lists 'Illinois Everbearing' and 'Silk Hope' as white × red hybrids (with 'Silk Hope' bearing larger fruit), 'Collier' as another red-white hybrid, and 'Hicks Everbearing' and 'Townsend' as red mulberry selections. Because of the invasive concern above, gardeners in regions where white mulberry spreads should weigh a true native red mulberry instead. For landscapes, NC State considers dwarf, weeping white mulberries such as 'Chaparral' and 'Pendula' better home choices.

Where and how to plant a mulberry

Choose the site first

Mulberries drop ripe fruit for weeks, and the dark juice stains concrete, decks, cars and clothing. Birds that eat the fruit leave messy droppings nearby. NC State warns that dropped fruit stains concrete walkways, patios and cars, so consider where the canopy will extend before planting. Plan for a spot in a lawn, a back corner or a wildlife area, with the full mature canopy clear of paving.

Planting

  1. Buy true red mulberry from a native plant nursery, or grow it from seed or from cuttings taken during winter pruning, per Alabama Extension. Because trees are usually male or female, Alabama Extension suggests planting several for good pollination.
  2. Choose full sun for the best fruit; red mulberry tolerates shade but bears less.
  3. Dig a hole as deep as the root ball and two to three times as wide, and set the tree at the depth it grew in the nursery.
  4. Water deeply and mulch around the roots, keeping mulch off the base of the trunk.

The general method is in how to plant a tree.

Mulberry tree care

  • Water: water young trees through dry spells. Alabama Extension notes occasional deep watering during severe drought can benefit fruit production. NC State rates both species drought tolerant.
  • Soil: red mulberry does best in rich, moist, well-drained soil and does not do well in poor soil, per NC State. White mulberry tolerates heat, drought and a wide range of soils, including alkaline ones, which is part of why it naturalizes so easily.
  • Fertilizer: Alabama Extension suggests occasional early-spring feeding based on a soil test.
  • Pruning: prune in late fall or winter to limit bleeding of the milky sap, removing dead, broken and crossing branches and keeping fruiting branches within reach. Alabama Extension advises against cutting branches more than 2 inches in diameter because of heavy bleeding, slow healing and disease risk.
  • Growth rate: rapid; NC State notes white mulberry grows quickly but is relatively short-lived. Allow for a broad crown.

Harvesting and eating mulberries

Ripe mulberries are edible raw or cooked. Red mulberry fruit ripens in early summer (May to June in North Carolina), and University of Minnesota Extension says white mulberry fruits from June to August, best in July; Alabama Extension notes the harvest window is generally only a few weeks. Ripe red mulberries are almost black; white-fruited trees stay pale. A common harvest method is to spread a clean tarp or sheet under the branches and shake.

The fruit is fragile and keeps poorly, so use it quickly or freeze it; Alabama Extension freezes rinsed, air-dried berries in a single layer before bagging. NC State Extension's plant toolbox rates mulberries low in toxicity but notes that unripe fruit and the milky sap can cause stomach upset, and that red mulberry sap can cause contact dermatitis, so eat only ripe berries.

For wildlife gardeners, the fruit is a major early-summer food for songbirds; see best plants for attracting songbirds.

Pests and problems

Mulberries have few serious pests. The common issues are:

  • Birds: they take a large share of the fruit. Netting is practical only on small trees.
  • Bacterial blight: per NC State, it may kill foliage and branches.
  • Coral spot cankers: may cause twig dieback. Avoid large pruning wounds and mower damage.
  • Borers and whiteflies: NC State lists both as possible problems.
  • Popcorn disease: per University of Arkansas Extension, a fungus replaces parts of the fruit so berries look like popped corn; remove and destroy spent fruit from the tree and the ground.
  • No fruit: the tree may be male (including fruitless selections) or still young.

Common mistakes

MistakeWhy it mattersDo this instead
Planting over a driveway, patio or sidewalkWeeks of dropped fruit stain paving and attract birdsPlant in a lawn or back corner with the full canopy clear of hard surfaces
Buying an unlabeled mulberry where white mulberry is invasiveWhite mulberry spreads by bird-dropped seed and hybridizes with native red mulberryBuy true red mulberry or another native fruit tree
Identifying by fruit colorWhite mulberry fruit can be white, pink or deep purpleCheck the leaf surface: rough with hairy undersides means red, glossy means white
Heavy spring pruningCuts bleed milky sap, and large wounds heal slowlyPrune in late fall or winter and avoid cutting branches over 2 inches thick
Planting a fruitless mulberry in an allergy-prone household or regulated cityMale trees shed heavy, allergenic pollenCheck local ordinances and choose a low-pollen shade tree

Frequently asked

What does a mulberry tree look like?

A mulberry is a broad, rounded deciduous tree with toothed leaves that can be unlobed, mitten-shaped or deeply lobed on the same tree. The fruit looks like a slender blackberry. Cut leaves and twigs bleed milky sap.

How big does a mulberry tree get?

Red and white mulberries typically reach about 30 to 50 feet tall with a crown nearly as wide, and NC State gives a range up to 60 feet. Both grow rapidly, so expect a large tree within a couple of decades.

Are mulberries edible?

Yes, ripe mulberries are edible raw, cooked or frozen. Avoid unripe fruit and the milky sap, which NC State Extension notes can cause stomach upset; red mulberry sap can also irritate skin.

How can you tell red mulberry from white mulberry?

Feel the leaves. Red mulberry leaves are rough on top with fine hairs underneath, while white mulberry leaves are glossy and smooth. Fruit color is unreliable because white mulberry fruit ranges from white to deep purple.

What is a fruitless mulberry?

It is a male white mulberry that produces no berries. It was planted in the Southwest for dense shade and heat tolerance, but University of Arizona Extension lists it as an allergy offender because of its heavy spring pollen, and Albuquerque prohibits the sale and planting of all mulberries.

How fast does a mulberry tree grow?

NC State rates both red and white mulberry as rapid growers, and Alabama Extension notes trees often grow too tall for easy hand harvesting unless pruned. That vigor is part of why white mulberry spreads easily on disturbed ground.

How do you get rid of a mulberry tree?

Pull seedlings while they are small, roots and all; NC State calls hand-pulling young seedlings the best management. For larger trees, follow your state Extension's guidance on controlling unwanted trees, and apply any herbicide strictly according to the label.

Sources

  1. Morus rubra, NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
  2. White mulberry, University of Minnesota Extension
  3. Invasive Species: Morus alba, White Mulberry, Cooperative Extension Invasive Species resource (extension.org)
  4. Native Fruits: Red Mulberry (Morus rubra), Alabama Cooperative Extension System
  5. Mulberry, University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service
  6. Pollen Control Ordinance (Article 12), City of Albuquerque Environmental Health Department
  7. Morus alba (White Mulberry), NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
  8. Plants That May Cause Allergies in Yavapai County (Bulletin #2), University of Arizona Cooperative Extension