Fig Tree: How to Grow, Prune and Protect Figs in Any Zone

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At a glance

What a fig tree is (and how to recognize one)

The edible fig, Ficus carica, is a deciduous member of the mulberry family. Outdoors in the US it usually grows as a broad, multi-stemmed shrub or a low-branched small tree. It is a different plant from the tropical figs sold as houseplants, such as the fiddle-leaf fig and the weeping fig, which are evergreen and not winter hardy.

Identification

• Leaves: large, thick and rough-textured, usually with three to five deep, rounded lobes. They drop in fall.
• Bark: smooth and light gray, even on older stems.
• Sap: a milky latex bleeds from cut leaves, stems and unripe fruit.
• Fruit: pear- or teardrop-shaped, with a small opening (the "eye") at the bottom. A fig is technically a hollow structure lined with tiny flowers, which is why no blossoms are ever visible.

Look-alikes: mulberries share the lobed leaves and milky sap but bear small, blackberry-like fruit; see the mulberry tree guide for that comparison.

Fig types and pollination

Fig types are sorted by how they set fruit, and the distinction decides whether one tree will crop on its own:

Per NC State's fig culture guide and Iowa State Extension, the common figs grown in home landscapes need no pollinator, so a single tree fruits on its own. Per UMD Extension, poor harvests usually trace to cold-killed stems, an unsuited cultivar, too little sun, a short season, crowded branches or excess fertilizer, not a missing partner. For how other fruit trees compare, see which fruit trees need a pollination partner.

Breba crop vs main crop

Many common figs bear twice. The breba crop forms on the previous year's wood and ripens in early summer. The main crop forms on the current season's shoots and ripens from late summer into fall. Where winter kills the stems, the breba crop is lost, but a fig that regrows from the roots can still produce a main crop on new wood. Per UT Gardens, that is why short-season cold-hardy cultivars, which can ripen a crop on new wood, are the ones recommended for cold regions.

Choosing a variety

For most gardeners the deciding factors are cold tolerance, whether the cultivar fruits well on new wood, and the size of the eye. Per UF/IFAS Extension, cultivars with a closed eye are preferred because the tight opening keeps insects and rain out of the fruit and reduces rotting, while open-eyed cultivars are often attacked by insects and diseases.

Names are inconsistent in the nursery trade (NC State notes 'Brown Turkey' is also sold as 'Texas Everbearing' or 'Harrison'), so buy from a regional nursery and check your state Extension list for local picks.

Climate, zones and cold-hardy figs

Figs love long, hot summers. Per UT Gardens and UMD Extension, they are grown successfully well north of the Deep South, but in the colder part of their range the top growth can be killed in a hard winter while the roots survive and resprout.

Microclimate matters as much as the zone number. Per UT Gardens, a spot near a south- or southwest-facing wall or structure gives wind protection, high light and radiant heat. Check your first and last frost dates: a short season can stop the main crop from ripening before frost.

How to plant a fig tree

1. Pick the site. Full sun, the warmest spot available, and good drainage. Leave room: a fig in a warm climate can spread as wide as it is tall.
2. Time it. Per NC State's fig culture guide, plant container-grown figs only in spring; dormant bare-root plants can go in from late fall to early spring, with spring preferred.
3. Dig wide, not deep. Make the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball and no deeper. Set the plant at the depth it grew in the pot.
4. Backfill and water. Use the native soil, firm it gently, and water deeply. Follow the general tree planting steps for root-ball prep.
5. Mulch. Figs are shallow-rooted and should not be cultivated around, per NC State, so mulch the root zone with leaves, pine straw or similar material to hold moisture and control weeds.

Growing figs in containers

In zones 6 and colder, a container lets you move the plant into an unheated garage or shed once it is dormant. Rutgers Master Gardeners and UMD Extension suggest a pot of at least 15 gallons, with casters to make moving it easier. Per Iowa State Extension, give potted figs at least 8 hours of sun, water when the top 1–2 inches of mix is dry, and move them into a garage or basement that stays above freezing before the first hard freeze, watering about once a week without overwatering. Reacclimate the plant gradually in spring.

Fig tree care: water, soil, fertilizer and pruning

Water

Fig roots are shallow, so the plant shows drought stress quickly. Per UC IPM, keep soil moisture consistent, especially in a young tree's first year, and water established trees deeply and less often, around the drip line rather than at the trunk.

Soil

Figs tolerate a wide range of soils as long as they drain. Per UF/IFAS, root-knot nematodes can limit figs planted in sandy soils but are usually not a problem in fertile or loamy soils; organic amendments and mulch reduce the damage.

Fertilizer

Figs are light feeders. Excess nitrogen produces lush leaves at the expense of fruit and can delay ripening, so NC State ties feeding to growth: if a fig puts on more than 1 to 2 feet of new growth a year, reduce or eliminate nitrogen. UC IPM advises no fertilizer during the first growing season. Base any feeding on a soil test.

Pruning

Figs need far less pruning than apples or peaches. Per NC State, UC IPM and UMD Extension, the basics are:

• Prune in late winter, just before growth begins, when winter-killed wood is easy to see.
• Remove dead, broken and crossing branches, and root suckers you don't want.
• Thin crowded stems to keep the center open to light; avoid heavy winter cutting, which UF/IFAS warns can eliminate the following crop.
• UMD Extension prefers a shrub form with 3 to 8 main stems from the roots over a single trunk.

A sharp bypass pruner and a pruning saw handle nearly all fig pruning. For timing across your whole yard, see the pruning calendar.

Winter protection in zones 6–7

Rutgers Master Gardeners and UMD Extension both describe protecting in-ground figs. The common approach:

1. Wait until the plant has dropped its leaves and gone dormant.
2. Prune the plant to a manageable size (UMD suggests cutting main stems back to 4–5 ft) and tie the stems together.
3. Wrap the bundle in burlap, or surround the plant with a cage of chicken wire or fencing filled with leaves, hay or straw.
4. Cover the top of the cage with a tarp to shed rain and snow, and mound soil or mulch around the base; NC State suggests 1–2 ft high around the trunk.
5. Remove the protection in spring once the danger of frost has passed.

UMD notes that insulation can attract voles, which feed on bark. Even with protection, some winters kill stems back; injured plants sprout new shoots from the roots, and lightly scraping the bark to look for green tissue shows which stems are alive. Leave the plant in place until new growth shows from the base before deciding it is dead. For trunk wraps on other young trees, see wrapping young trees for winter.

Harvesting figs

Per UMD Extension, green, unripe figs will not ripen after picking, so timing is everything. Per UC IPM and UT Gardens, a ripe fig:

• Has turned its full mature color for the cultivar (brown, purple, yellow or green).
• Feels soft when gently squeezed.
• Droops on the stem so the fruit hangs down, and comes off easily when lifted.

Milky sap at the cut stem end means the fruit is not fully ripe, per UC IPM. Ripe figs are highly perishable, so eat, dry, freeze or preserve them promptly. Wear gloves and long sleeves when harvesting or pruning: the milky sap irritates skin for many people.

How long until a fig tree fruits?

Per UMD Extension, figs usually begin fruiting in their second or third year. In cold zones, how much ripens depends on how long the season is after spring regrowth.

Propagating a fig tree

Figs root readily from cuttings, which is why so many backyard figs were started from a neighbor's tree. Per NC State's fig culture guide, take 8–10 inch cuttings of well-matured wood from the previous season, store them cool and dry until spring, then set them upright in furrows 6–8 inches deep with at least one bud above the soil, and grow them a year before transplanting. UMD Extension also lists root suckers and tip layering: bend a low branch down, bury a section, and cut it free once roots form. The air layering guide covers the above-ground version of this method.

Pests and problems

Figs have fewer pest problems than most fruit trees, and spraying is rarely needed. The issues worth knowing:

• Birds and squirrels at ripe fruit: the main competition. Harvest promptly; UMD recommends fine polyethylene netting, since large-holed netting can entangle birds and snakes.
• Souring and fruit rot: per UF/IFAS, open-eyed fruit is often attacked by insects and diseases, and some cultivars split and sour in wet weather. Closed-eye cultivars and prompt harvest reduce losses.
• Fig rust: per UF/IFAS, leaves turn brown and drop early, which can ripen fruit prematurely and reduce cold tolerance. See how to identify rust diseases.
• Root-knot nematodes: galled roots and stunting, mainly in sandy soils; start with gall-free plants, and use mulch and organic matter.
• Winter dieback: the most common problem in zones 6–7. Prune dead wood in spring and protect the plant next fall.

Common mistakes

Frequently asked

Do fig trees need a pollinator?

No. The common-type figs sold for home gardens, such as 'Brown Turkey' and 'Celeste', develop fruit without pollination, so one tree is enough. Smyrna-type figs need pollen carried by the fig wasp, which is not native to North America, so they are not suited to home gardens.

How much sun does a fig tree need?

Figs need full sun; UMD and Iowa State Extension recommend at least 8 hours of direct sun a day. In cooler regions a site near a south- or southwest-facing wall adds the heat that helps fruit ripen before fall frost.

When should you prune a fig tree?

Prune in late winter, just before growth begins, when winter-damaged wood is easy to spot. Keep pruning light: remove dead, crossing and crowded stems rather than cutting the whole plant back, since heavy winter pruning can eliminate the following crop.

How big does a fig tree get?

In warm climates a fig can become a spreading tree of roughly 10 to 30 feet. Where winters kill stems back, it usually stays a much smaller shrub, and pruning or a container keeps it compact.

Can you grow a fig tree in a pot?

Yes. A container of at least 15 gallons with drainage holes works well and is a practical method in zone 6 and colder, because the dormant plant can be moved into a garage or basement that stays above freezing for winter. Potted figs need more frequent watering in summer.

How long does it take a fig tree to bear fruit?

Per UMD Extension, figs usually begin fruiting in their second or third year. In cold regions the amount that ripens depends on how long the growing season is after the plant leafs out, because the main crop forms on new growth.

How do you wrap a fig tree for winter?

After the plant drops its leaves and goes dormant, prune it to a manageable size, tie the stems together, and wrap them in burlap or enclose them in a wire cage filled with leaves or straw. Shed rain and snow with a tarp on top, mound soil or mulch around the base, and remove the protection in spring after frost danger passes.

Sources

1. Fig Tree Winter Protection, Rutgers Master Gardeners (Rutgers NJAES)
2. Growing Figs in Maryland, University of Maryland Extension
3. Common Fig: Ficus carica, UT Gardens, University of Tennessee
4. Growing Hardy Figs in Iowa, Iowa State University Extension
5. Fig Culture in North Carolina, NC State Extension
6. Cultural Tips for Growing Fig, UC IPM
7. HS27/MG214: The Fig, UF/IFAS Extension
8. Ficus carica (Common Fig), NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox

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