Apple Tree Guide: How to Choose, Plant and Care for Apple Trees

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At a glance

What an apple tree is (and how to identify one)

The cultivated apple, Malus domestica, is a deciduous tree in the rose family. Named apples such as 'Honeycrisp' or 'Liberty' are clones: every tree of that cultivar is grafted onto a separate rootstock, because apple seeds do not grow into copies of the parent.

Identification

• Leaves: simple, alternate, oval to elliptical, usually with toothed or scalloped edges; the underside has raised veins and may be fuzzy.
• Flowers: clusters of 4–6 white, pink-tinged, five-petaled blossoms in spring; the central "king bloom" opens first.
• Fruiting spurs: short, stubby side shoots that carry flowers and fruit for several years.
• Bark: gray and smooth with raised lenticels on young trees, becoming rough and flaky with age.

Apple vs crabapple: they are the same genus, and crabapples bear much smaller fruit. Per University of Minnesota Extension, a crabapple within about 100 feet can supply the pollen an apple tree needs. Both can be affected by cedar-apple rust.

Choosing cultivars

Pick cultivars for three things, in this order: winter hardiness for your zone, disease resistance for your climate, and then flavor and harvest season.

Cold-hardy cultivars

The University of Minnesota's breeding program has released cold-hardy cultivars including 'Haralson', 'Honeycrisp', 'Zestar!', 'SweeTango' and 'Frostbite', and UMN Extension rates cultivars such as 'Frostbite' and 'Haralson' for zones 3–4. Gardeners in colder areas should start with their state's list rather than a national catalog.

Disease-resistant cultivars

NC State lists apple scab among the most common apple problems, and resistant cultivars are the easiest way to cut spraying. Ohio State recommends scab-resistant cultivars including 'Liberty', 'Enterprise', 'GoldRush', 'Pristine', 'Redfree', 'Jonafree' and 'Williams' Pride', and UMN rates 'Freedom' immune to scab. Scab resistance does not mean resistance to every disease, so check each cultivar's fire blight and cedar-apple rust rating; Ohio State also notes these cultivars are not resistant to insects or mites. The apple scab guide explains the infection cycle.

Climate, zones and chilling

Apples are among the most cold-hardy tree fruits, which is why they grow from Minnesota to the mid-South. Two climate limits decide which cultivars work where you live:

• Winter cold. In zones 3–4, only cultivars bred or tested for severe winters survive reliably; University of Minnesota Extension maintains that list.
• Winter chilling. Apple buds need a period of cool winter temperatures before they break dormancy normally, and NC State notes that cultivars differ in their chilling-hour requirements. In mild-winter areas, choose cultivars your state Extension recommends for local chill.
• Spring frost. A frost during bloom can kill the crop. Ohio State advises planting sites free of spring frosts with good air circulation, such as a slope above low ground where cold air pools.

Hot, humid summers do not stop apples from growing, but they raise disease pressure, which is why cultivar choice matters more in the Southeast and Mid-Atlantic than in the arid West.

Rootstocks and tree size

Rootstock sets the tree's final size, how soon it fruits, and whether it needs staking. Sizes and spacing below follow University of Minnesota Extension and are approximate:

For a full comparison of M.9, M.26, M.7, MM.111 and Geneva rootstocks, see the fruit tree rootstock guide. Staking and spacing for small trees are covered in dwarf and semi-dwarf apple trees.

Apple tree pollination

Ohio State Extension considers all apple cultivars self-incompatible: you need at least two different cultivars that bloom at the same time. University of Minnesota Extension says the pollen source should be within about 100 feet, and a crabapple can serve as the second tree.

• Two trees of the same cultivar do not count. They are genetically identical clones.
• Bloom overlap matters. Nursery catalogs and Extension charts group cultivars into early, mid and late bloom.
• Triploid cultivars such as 'Jonagold' and 'Mutsu' cannot supply viable pollen, per the Extension apples resource. They need a pollinator but cannot return the favor, so plant two other cultivars alongside them.
• Bees do the work. Avoid insecticides during bloom.

Kentucky Extension lists a few cultivars, such as 'Rome Beauty', as self-fruitful, but planting two compatible cultivars is the reliable plan. Compatibility for apples, pears, plums and cherries is charted in fruit tree pollination pairs.

Where and how to plant an apple tree

Site

Choose full sun (UMN calls for at least 8 hours a day), well-drained soil with no standing water, and good air movement. Avoid low spots where cold air settles, because spring frosts kill blossoms. Per Ohio State, morning sun is especially useful because it dries dew from the leaves and reduces disease.

Steps

1. Plant early. Set out bare-root trees in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked; Ohio State says container trees can go in any time during the growing season if they get enough water.
2. Dig wide. UMN recommends a hole no deeper than the root ball and about twice as wide.
3. Keep the graft union above ground. The swollen union near the base should sit above the soil line: 2–3 inches per Ohio State, about 4 inches per UMN. If it is buried, the scion can root and the dwarfing effect of the rootstock is lost.
4. Stake dwarfing rootstocks at planting.
5. Water deeply and mulch the root zone, keeping mulch at least 3 inches from the trunk. Protect young trunks from rabbits and voles with a white, ventilated tree guard.

For root prep and depth on dormant stock, see how to plant bare-root trees.

Apple tree care: water, soil and fertilizer

Water: per University of Minnesota Extension, an apple tree should ideally get about an inch of water a week from rain or irrigation from May through October, so water the root zone thoroughly in dry spells throughout the tree's life. Trees on dwarfing rootstocks have smaller root systems.

Soil: apples grow in most soils without standing water. UMN recommends pH 6–7 and Ohio State puts the ideal near 6.5. Test the soil before planting, since pH is much easier to fix before the tree is in.

Fertilizer: let a soil test and the tree's growth guide you. Per UMN, branches of non-bearing young trees normally grow 12–18 inches a year and bearing trees 8–12 inches; excessive growth is a sign of more than enough nitrogen. Ohio State fertilizes in spring and recommends a soil test every two to three years, and lists too much nitrogen among the reasons trees fail to fruit.

Mulch and weeds: for the first three to five years, keep grass and weeds out of about a 3-foot radius around the tree, per UMN. Grass depletes soil moisture quickly and slows growth.

Pruning and thinning

Pruning

Prune apple trees every year in late winter while they are dormant (Ohio State says February or March), after the coldest weather and before growth begins. Most backyard trees are trained to a central leader or modified central leader: one main trunk with tiers of well-spaced, wide-angled scaffold branches. Each year, remove dead, diseased and crossing wood, cut out vigorous upright water sprouts, and thin the canopy so light reaches the interior. On old or neglected trees, Ohio State advises removing only two or three large limbs a year and restoring the shape over about three years, because cutting too much at once can endanger the tree.

The cut-by-cut method, with diagrams for young and mature trees, is in how to prune fruit trees.

Thinning fruit

Apples usually set far more fruit than they can size. Per University of Minnesota Extension, thin when the fruit is about marble size, after some has dropped naturally (late June or early July in Minnesota): leave one fruit per cluster, remove the smallest, and space the remaining fruit 4–6 inches (a fist width) apart. Thinning gives larger apples, reduces limb breakage, and helps prevent biennial bearing, where a heavy crop is followed by little or none the next year.

Harvesting apples

Harvest dates vary from late summer into fall by cultivar. Per UMN and Ohio State Extension, judge ripeness by several signs together, not by red color alone:

• The background (non-blushed) skin turns from green toward yellow.
• The flesh loses its greenish tint, and the flavor is sweet and aromatic rather than starchy.
• The fruit comes off with a single lift and twist; avoid yanking, which can tear off the spur and next year's flower buds.

Handle apples gently; bruises shorten storage life. UMN notes that apples store longest at about 33–38°F with high humidity, and less-ripe fruit stores longer than very ripe fruit.

Pests and diseases

NC State rates apples high-maintenance, with frequent disease and insect problems, so a low-spray orchard starts with resistant cultivars and sanitation.

UMN advises raking up fallen leaves and fruit each fall, which reduces overwintering scab and insects. For any spray, follow your state Extension's current home-orchard schedule and the product label.

Common mistakes

Frequently asked

How long does it take an apple tree to bear fruit?

Per University of Minnesota Extension, trees on dwarfing rootstocks start bearing 2 to 3 years after planting, while standard trees can take up to 8 years. Trees grown from seed are the slowest of all and can take many years.

Does an apple tree need a pollinator?

Almost always. Ohio State considers all apple cultivars self-incompatible, so plant a different cultivar that blooms at the same time; two trees of the same cultivar do not count. A crabapple within about 100 feet can also serve as the pollinator.

Can you grow an apple tree from an apple seed?

Yes, but the tree will not match the apple the seed came from. Each seed is a new genetic cross, so the fruit is unpredictable and often small or sour. Seedlings also grow into large standard-size trees, which is why named apples are propagated by grafting.

When should you prune an apple tree?

Prune in late winter while the tree is dormant, before growth begins; Ohio State says February or March. Light summer pruning can remove water sprouts, but the main structural work belongs in the dormant season.

How big does an apple tree get?

Size depends mostly on the rootstock. Dwarf trees stay around 8 to 10 feet, semi-dwarf trees reach roughly 12 to 18 feet, and standard trees on seedling roots grow 20 feet or more; NC State gives up to 30 feet for trees grown from seed.

What does an apple tree look like?

It is a rounded deciduous tree with oval, toothed leaves, clusters of white, pink-tinged five-petaled flowers in spring, and short fruiting spurs along the branches. The bark is gray and smooth when young and becomes rough and flaky with age.

What is the easiest apple tree to grow?

In humid regions, a scab-resistant cultivar such as 'Liberty' or 'Enterprise', both recommended by Ohio State, on a semi-dwarf rootstock is the most forgiving choice because it needs far less spraying. In cold regions, start with cultivars on your state Extension's recommended list.

Sources

1. Growing Apples in the Home Garden, University of Minnesota Extension
2. Growing Apples in the Home Orchard (HYG-1401), Ohio State University Extension
3. Growing Apples in the Home Garden, Oklahoma State University Extension
4. Apples | Fruit Trees for Home Gardens, University of Illinois Extension
5. Growing Tree Fruits (Kentucky Master Gardener Manual, HO-104), University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension
6. Malus domestica (Apple), NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
7. All University of Minnesota Apple Varieties, University of Minnesota, Minnesota Hardy
8. Pollinating Apples, Cooperative Extension (apples.extension.org)

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