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Finish planting and close out the vegetable garden
In zone 6 (Missouri, southern Illinois, Indiana and Ohio), the soil usually stays workable into November. Spring bulbs and garlic can still go in as long as you can dig, per the October guide. In zones 3–5, plant whatever bulbs are left during the first thaw you get. Bulbs kept in a bag over winter rarely survive.
- Harvest kale, Brussels sprouts and leeks as needed. They hold through hard frosts, and Brussels sprouts sweeten in the cold.
- Pull and throw out (do not compost) tomato, squash and cucumber vines that had disease, along with fallen fruit.
- Spread shredded leaves or compost over empty beds to protect the soil and feed it over winter.
- In Ohio, Indiana, Michigan and Illinois, check bark, fences and outdoor items for spotted lanternfly egg masses. Ohio State University Extension asks residents to scrape and destroy the masses during winter and report new finds.
Water before the ground freezes
Evergreens keep losing water through their needles and leaves all winter, and they cannot draw more from frozen soil. Per Iowa State Extension, the best protection against winter desiccation (browned foliage, worst on the windward and sunny sides) for yews, boxwood, arborvitae and other evergreens is a thorough watering in fall before the ground freezes.
- If fall has been dry, soak evergreens and anything planted this year slowly and deeply every week or two until the soil freezes. That is usually early-to-mid November in zones 3–4 and later in November or December in zones 5–6.
- Put 2–4 inches of wood-chip or shredded-bark mulch over the root zone of trees and shrubs, kept a few inches back from trunks. See mulching around trees.
- For exposed boxwood and yews on windy sites, set up a burlap screen on stakes on the windward side. Michigan State University Extension recommends windbreaks rather than tight wrapping.
- Disconnect hoses after the last watering. Drain them and store them indoors.
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If your zone 5–6 lawn is still green in November, a broadcast spreader with an edge guard puts down the last nitrogen feeding evenly and keeps granules off pavement. See how we chose it.
Winter mulch: after the soil freezes
Winter mulch on perennials is meant to keep frozen soil frozen. That prevents freeze-thaw heaving and protects crowns during the deep cold, especially when there is little snow cover. Per UMN Extension and Iowa State Extension, mulch after the ground freezes, not before. Mulch put down early keeps the soil warm and gives voles a place to nest.
- Perennials: spread several inches of straw, marsh hay or shredded leaves over the crowns of perennials, especially those planted or divided this year and borderline-hardy plants.
- Garlic: mulch the bed with straw once the soil begins to freeze, if you have not already.
- Strawberries: per Iowa State Extension, cover the rows with straw after the plants have hardened off from several cold nights but before temperatures drop far enough to damage the crowns. In Iowa this usually falls in November. Pull the straw into the aisles in spring.
Leave healthy perennial stems and grasses standing. They catch snow, which is the best insulation a Midwest garden gets. See winter protection for perennials.
Roses and tender shrubs
Hardy shrub roses (many Canadian-bred and own-root shrub types) generally need no special winter protection in zones 4–6. Grafted hybrid teas, floribundas and grandifloras do. Per Iowa State Extension:
- Wait until after several hard freezes, usually in November, so the plants are fully dormant.
- Mound 8–12 inches of soil or compost over the base of each plant to cover the graft union. Bring the soil in from elsewhere; scraping it up from around the rose exposes the roots.
- Once the mound freezes, add a layer of straw or leaves on top for extra protection.
- Tie up long canes of climbers so wind does not whip them.
In zones 3–4, rose growers have long buried tender roses entirely (the Minnesota tip method), but it is a lot of work. For new plantings, choosing hardy shrub roses is the simpler fix. See winter protection for roses.
Do not prune bigleaf hydrangeas or other shrubs that bloom on old wood now. Cutting them back in fall removes next year's flower buds.
Rabbits, voles and deer
Once snow covers their usual food, rabbits and voles turn to bark and buds. Young fruit trees, burning bush, serviceberry, roses and raspberries are frequent targets. Iowa State Extension and Illinois Extension both recommend physical barriers:
- Rabbits: put cylinders of hardware cloth or chicken wire around trunks and small shrubs, tall enough to stay above the deepest snow you usually get, because rabbits feed while standing on the snowpack.
- Voles: use hardware cloth (¼-inch mesh) pushed a couple of inches into the soil around the trunk base. Pull mulch away from trunks so voles cannot feed on the bark unseen.
- Deer: fence or net high-value shrubs and young trees. Repellents help when started before feeding patterns set in, but they need reapplying and work best on mild days.
Paper tree wrap on thin-barked young trees (maple, linden, crabapple) helps reduce sunscald and frost cracks in zones 3–5. The September guide recommends putting it on before October. Late is better than never. Remove it in spring.
Last lawn work
Late-season nitrogen: per Purdue's turf program, the last fall nitrogen application can go on cool-season lawns as long as the grass is still green and the ground is not frozen. Top growth has slowed, so the nitrogen feeds roots and stored reserves, and the lawn greens up earlier in spring. In zones 5–6 this is often a November job. In zones 3–4 the window has usually closed by now. Use a phosphorus-free product unless a soil test calls for phosphorus, and never apply to frozen ground. Wisconsin law prohibits it.
Final mowing and leaves: keep mowing at the normal height until the grass stops growing, and mow or rake leaves off one last time. Matted leaves and long grass under snow encourage snow mold. Shredded leaves can go onto beds as mulch.
Tools, hoses and the shed
Per Iowa State Extension:
- Remove soil and plant sap from shovels, hoes and pruners, sharpen the edges, and wipe metal with light oil to prevent rust.
- Sand rough wooden handles and rub in linseed oil.
- Drain hoses, sprayers and drip lines. Store timers, backflow preventers and pressure regulators indoors.
- Run gas-powered equipment dry or add fuel stabilizer, according to the manual.
- Store liquid pesticides and fertilizers in their original containers where they will not freeze.
Plan for winter salt now. Per UW–Madison Extension, deicing salt damages plants through spray on foliage and through salty meltwater in the soil. Decide where shoveled snow will go, keep it off beds, and use sand for traction near plantings.
Common mistakes
| Mistake | Consequence | Correct approach |
|---|---|---|
| Mulching perennials before the ground freezes | Warm soil, vole nests and heaving anyway | Mulch after the soil has frozen |
| Scraping soil from around a rose to mound it | Exposes the roots to cold | Bring soil or compost in from elsewhere for the mound |
| Guarding trunks only up to ankle height | Rabbits feed above the guard while standing on the snowpack | Make guards taller than your typical snow depth |
| Fertilizing a frozen lawn | Runoff, wasted product, and illegal in Wisconsin | Make the last application while the grass is green and the soil is unfrozen |
| Skipping fall watering of evergreens in a dry autumn | Winter desiccation and browned foliage | Water deeply until the soil freezes |
| Leaving hoses and drip lines full | Split hoses, fittings and valves | Drain everything and store it indoors |
Frequently asked
When does the ground freeze in the Midwest?
It varies by year and location. The top few inches commonly freeze in November in zones 3–4 and in late November to December in zones 5–6. Use the ground itself as your signal: when the soil surface stays frozen through the day, it is time for winter mulch.
Should I cut back my perennials in November?
Only diseased plants and soft ones such as hostas that collapse after frost. Iowa State and UMN both note that standing stems trap insulating snow and shelter beneficial insects. Cut back in spring.
What is the best winter mulch for strawberries?
Clean straw, free of weed seed. Spread a few inches over the rows after the plants have had several cold nights to harden off, and pull it into the aisles in spring when new leaves begin to yellow under it.
Do I need to wrap my young maple tree?
In zones 3–5, thin-barked young trees benefit from paper tree wrap for their first few winters to reduce sunscald and frost cracking. Remove it in spring. Leaving it on year-round traps moisture and insects.
Sources
- How do I prevent desiccation injury to my yews and boxwoods?, Iowa State University Extension
- Mulching and Perennial Overwintering, University of Minnesota Extension
- How to Overwinter Roses, Iowa State University Extension
- When should I mulch my strawberries?, Iowa State University Extension
- How to Protect Trees and Shrubs from Animal Damage Over Winter, Iowa State University Extension
- Protect Your Landscape from Rabbits This Winter, University of Illinois Extension
- Is It Too Late to Apply My Last Nitrogen Fertilization?, Purdue University Turfgrass Science
- Winter Salt Injury and Salt-Tolerant Landscape Plants, University of Wisconsin–Madison Extension