How-To

How to Plant Spring Bulbs in Fall (Depth, Spacing, Drainage)

I plant bulbs every October in Melville. My current mix is daffodils ('Ice Follies', 'Thalia', 'February Gold'), ornamental alliums ('Purple Sensation', 'Globemaster'), and grape hyacinths through the lawn edge. Tulips I have mostly given up on in open beds because of deer -- they will eat them.

Bulbs being placed in a prepared garden bed at the correct planting depth
Photo: Unsplash on Unsplash

I plant bulbs every October in Melville. My current mix is daffodils ('Ice Follies', 'Thalia', 'February Gold'), ornamental alliums ('Purple Sensation', 'Globemaster'), and grape hyacinths through the lawn edge. Tulips I have mostly given up on in open beds because of deer — they will eat them regardless of repellent if the pressure is high enough in late April.

Spring bulbs need to go in the ground in fall because they require a cold period of 12–16 weeks to develop properly. Per Penn State Extension, most spring-flowering bulbs need a minimum of 12–16 weeks at temperatures below 48°F to complete the physiological process that enables flower development. In zones 7 and warmer, planting in October is later than zones 5–6 (which can plant in September) because you need the soil to cool first.

—-

When to Plant

Per Penn State Extension, the planting window for spring bulbs is when soil temperature at 6-inch depth falls to 40–50°F. For most zones:

ZoneTypical Planting Window
Zone 4–5September 15–October 15
Zone 6–7October 1–November 15
Zone 7b–8October 15–December 1
Zone 9–10Pre-chill bulbs required (see below)

Upper limit: Per Penn State, do not plant bulbs after the ground freezes. Bulbs planted in frozen soil will not establish properly.

Lower limit: In zones 9–10, spring-flowering bulbs require artificial pre-chilling. Per Clemson HGIC, refrigerate tulips and hyacinths at 40–48°F in a paper bag (not the crisper drawer with fruit — ethylene from fruit damages bulbs) for 8–12 weeks before planting in December–January.

—-

More like this, monthly

Get the seasonal care notes — no upsell, unsubscribe any time.

One email per month from Thomas: what to plant, what to prune, what's about to break. Cited the same way as the guides.

Free. No spam. Same author as the guide you just read.