How to Overwinter Geraniums: 4 Methods

Zonal geraniums (*Pelargonium* × *hortorum*) are sold as annuals in most of the United States, but they're actually tender perennials that can survive many winters if stored correctly. A well-established geranium plant that you've grown for two or three seasons and selected for flower color and.

—- title: "How to Overwinter Geraniums: 4 Methods" slug: how-to-overwinter-geraniums hub: care category: "Seasonal Care" description: "Geraniums are tender perennials that can be saved each winter four different ways. This guide compares bare-root dormancy, potted indoor growing, cuttings, and cool-storage methods with success rates." date: 2026-06-10 updated: 2026-06-10 author: "Thomas A." reading_time: 8 —-

Zonal geraniums (Pelargonium × hortorum) are sold as annuals in most of the United States, but they're actually tender perennials that can survive many winters if stored correctly. A well-established geranium plant that you've grown for two or three seasons and selected for flower color and habit is worth saving. Replacement plants at a nursery cost $6—12 each; saving them costs nothing but shelf space and a little time.

Per Penn State Extension, there are four practical methods for overwintering zonal geraniums in zones 5—7. Each has a different success rate, different space requirement, and different demand on attention through winter.

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What You're Working With

The geraniums most commonly overwintered are Pelargonium × hortorum (zonal geraniums) and Pelargonium peltatum (ivy geraniums). Both are native to South Africa and frost-tender. Per Clemson HGIC, they are killed by any frost, so outdoor plants in zones 5—7 must be brought in or protected before temperatures drop to 32°F.

Scented-leaf geraniums (Pelargonium graveolens and relatives) and regal pelargoniums overwinter similarly but may require more light to maintain attractiveness indoors.

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Method 1: Potted Indoors (Highest Success)

Per Penn State Extension, keeping geraniums actively growing indoors through winter has the highest survival rate because the plants never go dormant and resume outdoor growth with the least disruption in spring.

Before first frost: Dig plants from the garden (or take them as existing container plants) and trim back by about one-third. Per NC State Extension, inspect plants for pests — particularly whitefly and geranium aphid — and treat before bringing indoors to avoid spreading problems to other houseplants.

Indoor conditions:

• Light: Minimum 4 hours of direct sun per day, or supplemental grow lights (16 hours of 2,000—3,000 lux). Per Penn State Extension, insufficient light causes leggy, pale growth through winter and poor performance when moved back outdoors
• Temperature: 60—65°F daytime, 55—60°F nighttime. Per Clemson HGIC, temperatures above 70°F indoors cause excessive, weak growth
• Watering: Allow the top inch of potting mix to dry before watering. Overwatering causes root and stem rot — the primary indoor winter loss. Water at the base, not overhead
• Fertilizing: Reduce fertilizer to once per month at half-strength through winter. Per NC State Extension, full-strength fertilizing under low winter light produces weak, easily diseased growth

Spring transition: Move plants back outdoors after last frost, hardening off over 7—10 days. Cut back hard in early spring to remove winter growth and stimulate vigorous new stems.

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Method 2: Bare-Root Dormancy (Low Maintenance)

Per Penn State Extension, bare-root storage induces a forced dormancy. This is the most space-efficient method but loses more plants than potted storage.

Process:

1. Before first frost, dig plants, shake off all soil, and trim back stems to 3—4 inches
2. Hang plants upside down in a cool (35—45°F), dark, dry location — a basement, root cellar, or unheated garage above freezing
3. Per Clemson HGIC, some sources recommend shaking soil off entirely and hanging without any medium; others store in slightly moist peat moss. Both work; the hanging method reduces rot risk

Monthly check: Per Penn State Extension, once a month, rehydrate severely shriveled plants by soaking the roots in water for 1 hour and allowing them to dry before returning to storage. Completely desiccated plants (leaves crispy, stems shriveled) are usually not recoverable.

Spring revival: In February or March (6—8 weeks before last frost), bring plants indoors, cut back dead wood to live tissue, pot in fresh potting mix, water, and place in a sunny window. Per NC State Extension, bare-root stored plants require 3—6 weeks to resume active growth.

Success rate: Per Penn State Extension, expect 60—80% survival with bare-root dormancy under good conditions. Lower survival rates occur when storage temperatures fluctuate or plants were diseased at the time of digging.

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Method 3: Cuttings (Guarantees Fresh Stock)

Taking cuttings in late summer (August—September) guarantees vigorous young plants for the following year regardless of what happens to the parent plants over winter.

When to take cuttings: Per NC State Extension, take 3—4 inch tip cuttings from non-flowering shoots in August or September. Earlier is better — cuttings taken in August have more time to establish before indoor winter conditions slow growth.

Process:

1. Cut a 3—4 inch tip cutting just below a leaf node with sharp, clean pruners
2. Remove the bottom leaves, leaving 2—3 leaves at the tip
3. Dip the cut end in 0.3% IBA rooting hormone powder; tap off excess
4. Insert in a 3-inch pot filled with perlite or a 50/50 perlite-peat mix
5. Keep moist but not wet under bright indirect light; roots develop in 3—4 weeks

Per Clemson HGIC, geranium cuttings root readily and do not strictly require rooting hormone, but it speeds the process. Once rooted, grow on as indoor plants (following the potted method above) until spring.

Advantage: Young plants from cuttings are compact, disease-free, and often outperform carried-over parent plants in their second outdoor season.

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Method 4: Paper Bag / Cool Dry Storage (Variable Results)

This method involves placing bare-root plants in a paper bag and storing in a cool, dry location without any medium.

Process: Per Penn State Extension, place bare-root trimmed plants in a paper bag and fold the top over. Store in a 35—45°F location. Check monthly and discard rotted plants.

Assessment: Results in the literature are mixed. Per Clemson HGIC, this method works well in consistently cool, dry storage conditions but fails when temperature or humidity fluctuates. Paper provides less insulation than peat or hanging, and plants in humid basements tend to mold.

Recommendation: Use bare-root hanging (Method 2) if you want dormant storage with minimal media; reserve paper bag storage for situations where hanging is not practical.

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Comparison Table

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Common Overwintering Problems

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FAQ

Can ivy geraniums be overwintered the same way as zonal geraniums? Yes. Per Penn State Extension, Pelargonium peltatum (ivy geranium) overwinters using the same four methods. Ivy geraniums are somewhat more frost-sensitive than zonals and should be brought in earlier — at the first frost warning rather than after a light frost.

Should I fertilize bare-root stored geraniums during winter? No. Per Clemson HGIC, dormant bare-root plants have no capacity to use fertilizer. Begin fertilizing only after the plant resumes active growth in spring.

How hard can I cut back a geranium when bringing it indoors? Per NC State Extension, a one-third reduction works well for potted indoor plants. For bare-root storage, cut back to 3—4 inches of stem. For spring revival after dormancy, cut back to live, green tissue regardless of how short that leaves the plant — geraniums regenerate from very short stems as long as some nodes remain.

Is it worth saving geraniums that show yellowing or disease symptoms? Generally no. Per Penn State Extension, diseased plants introduce pests and pathogens to the indoor environment. Take cuttings from healthy shoots on a marginally diseased plant, or start fresh next spring.

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Sources

1. Penn State Extension &mdash; <a href="https://extension.psu.edu/geraniums">Geraniums</a>
2. Clemson HGIC &mdash; <a href="https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/geraniums/">Geraniums</a>
3. NC State Extension &mdash; <a href="https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu">Pelargonium</a>