At a glance
| Botanical name | Salix babylonica; many nursery "weeping willows" are hybrids or weeping forms of white willow (S. alba) |
|---|---|
| Family | Salicaceae (willow and poplar family) |
| Type | Fast-growing deciduous tree |
| USDA zones | S. babylonica about 6–8; weeping white willow to zone 2 |
| Mature size | About 30–50 ft tall and as wide or wider |
| Growth rate | Fast; 3 ft or more a year |
| Light | Full sun to part shade (best in full sun) |
| Soil | Moist to wet; tolerates clay, sand and acidic to alkaline soil |
| Roots | Shallow, aggressive, water-seeking; spread about 3 times the canopy radius |
| Lifespan | Short-lived, often about 30 years |
| Native range | S. babylonica: northern China |
| Deer | Browsed by deer, rabbits and beavers |
What a weeping willow is (and how to recognize one)
The classic weeping willow is a broad, round-headed tree whose slender branches sweep down to the ground. UF/IFAS Extension and the Missouri Botanical Garden describe Salix babylonica as a fast-growing, wide-spreading tree native to northern China, best sited near water rather than on residential lots. Despite the name, it didn't come from Babylon: per NC State Extension, Linnaeus mistakenly believed it was from ancient Babylon. The Missouri Botanical Garden adds that many plants sold as S. babylonica today are probably hybrids or similar species.
Many weeping willows sold in colder regions are weeping forms of white willow (S. alba), such as golden weeping willow ('Tristis'). The University of Minnesota lists white willow as hardy to zone 2 and up to 50–100 feet tall.
Identification
- Leaves: narrow and lance-shaped, 3–6 inches long, finely toothed, light green above and gray-green beneath. NC State notes it is one of the first trees to leaf out in spring and the last to drop its leaves in fall.
- Twigs: long, thin and pendulous; reddish-brown to yellowish-brown, golden on some cultivars.
- Flowers: small, silvery-green catkins in April–May, with male and female flowers on separate trees.
- Bark: gray-brown to gray-black, irregularly furrowed.
Look-alikes
| Tree | How to tell it from weeping willow |
|---|---|
| Weeping birch | Toothed, broader leaves and white or peeling bark (see how to identify birch trees) |
| Weeping cherry | Smaller tree with oval leaves and showy pink or white spring flowers |
| Weeping mulberry | Small, mop-headed tree with broad leaves |
| Black willow (S. nigra, native) | Upright rather than weeping; a native streamside willow |
How fast weeping willows grow and how big they get
Weeping willows are among the fastest-growing landscape trees. The Arbor Day Foundation rates the growth rate as fast, at 3 feet or more a year, and the University of Minnesota says white willow can put on about 24 inches of new growth a year.
Plan for a tree 30–50 feet tall with an equal or greater spread, per UF/IFAS and the Missouri Botanical Garden (NC State and Arbor Day give 30–40 feet). Most yard trees end up wider than their owners expected. UF notes the drooping branches need pruning for clearance beneath, and the shade makes growing lawn underneath difficult.
The price of fast growth is weak, brittle wood and a short life. UF/IFAS says that even with good training the trees are usually short-lived, to 30 years or so, and NC State notes the wood cracks or breaks easily, especially under snow or ice.
Willow tree roots: where not to plant a weeping willow
Willow roots are shallow, aggressive and drawn to water. The Missouri Botanical Garden notes the roots seek out cracks in sewer and water pipes and can clog sewers or drains. UF/IFAS Extension warns not to plant weeping willows near underground water or sewer lines or close to septic drain fields, says the roots often grow on the soil surface and can lift sidewalks, and estimates they spread about three times the distance from the trunk to the edge of the canopy. For a typical 40-foot-wide crown (20 feet from trunk to edge), that is roughly 60 feet in every direction.
| Site | Weeping willow? |
|---|---|
| Large lot, edge of a pond or stream, no buried lines within the likely root spread | Good fit, as long as it isn't an invasive risk where you live (see below) |
| Wet low spot in a big yard, far from the house | Reasonable; the tree will use a lot of water |
| Within root range of a sewer line, septic tank or drain field, or water service line | No; see plants that are safe over septic fields |
| Near the foundation, driveway or patio | No; surface roots, limb drop and leaf litter |
| Small suburban yard | No; choose a smaller weeping tree from best trees for small yards |
Are weeping willows invasive? Native alternatives
Yes, in some places. The Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia invasive plant fact sheet notes that non-native willows (S. alba, S. babylonica and S. fragilis) have escaped cultivation and naturalized. Weeping willow is listed as invasive in Arlington County, Virginia, and white willow and its weeping forms are considered problematic in Alexandria. The fact sheet notes that seeds germinate on contact with soil, trees sucker into groves, and broken twigs root and colonize new areas downstream after floods. Before planting near a stream, pond or wetland, check your state's invasive plant list.
If you have a wet site and want a native, consider:
- Black willow (Salix nigra): a native willow that MGNV recommends for riparian areas away from structures.
- Silky willow (S. sericea): another native alternative MGNV suggests.
- River birch, swamp white oak and red maple: wet-tolerant natives with fewer root and limb problems.
- Buttonbush and other wet-site natives for smaller spaces. See plants for wet and poorly drained soil and best plants for a rain garden.
How to plant a weeping willow (or start one from a cutting)
Planting a nursery tree
- Plant in spring or fall in full sun, well beyond the likely root spread of buried utilities and structures.
- Dig wide, not deep: make the hole two to three times the width of the root ball and set the root flare at grade.
- Backfill with native soil, water thoroughly, and mulch 2–3 inches deep, keeping mulch off the trunk.
- Water deeply and often the first year. UF/IFAS notes weeping willow survives drought but drops leaves without irrigation.
How to propagate a willow from a cutting
Willows are propagated by stem cuttings (NC State Extension). A USDA Forest Service guide to dormant hardwood cuttings used for streambank restoration describes the method:
- Collect dormant cuttings in late winter (January–February), before the buds break. Wood from the previous year's growth roots best.
- For a "live stake," cut a section 12–16 inches long and about 1/2 to 2 inches thick, with healthy leaf buds. Make a straight cut at the top and an angled cut at the base so you plant it right side up, and avoid sections with flower buds.
- Keep cuttings moist (wrapped in wet burlap or standing in water) until planting, then push the angled end into moist soil where you want the tree, leaving some buds above ground, and keep the soil wet.
Weeping willow care: water, feeding and pruning
- Water: weeping willows use a lot of water. Away from a pond or stream, water deeply during dry spells, especially in the first few years; drought causes leaf drop.
- Fertilizer: rarely needed. Fast-growing willows usually find what they need in moist soil, and extra nitrogen only adds soft, breakable growth.
- Pruning: the Missouri Botanical Garden suggests pruning as needed in late winter to early spring. UF/IFAS says young willows need pruning and training to one strong central trunk with branch angles as wide as possible, which helps offset the brittle wood. To trim for headroom, shorten the hanging branches to a uniform height above the ground rather than shearing the crown. See when to prune deciduous trees.
- Cleanup: NC State and MOBOT both flag litter from leaves, twigs and branches, plus cottony seeds from female trees in late spring.
- Large limbs: on a mature tree, hire a certified arborist for anything over your head or near structures. The brittle wood makes these cuts hazardous.
Other willow trees and shrubs
Most willows share the same needs: sun, moisture, and room for roots. They differ mainly in size:
| Willow | Size | Grown for | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Weeping willow (S. babylonica and hybrids) | 30–50 ft | Weeping form | Needs a large, wet site far from utilities |
| Pussy willow (S. discolor) | Large shrub to small tree | Silver catkins in late winter | A smaller willow for wet spots |
| Corkscrew willow (S. babylonica f. tortuosa, formerly S. matsudana 'Tortuosa') | Medium tree | Twisted branches for winter interest | Shares the weeping willow's fast growth and brittle wood |
| Dappled willow (S. integra 'Hakuro Nishiki') | 4–6 ft shrub, occasionally to 10 ft | Pink, cream and green variegated new leaves | NC State recommends light pruning in late winter to early spring for the best variegation |
Pests and problems
Willows host many insects and diseases. The Missouri Botanical Garden and NC State Extension list blights, powdery mildew, leaf spots and cankers, plus aphids, mites, scale, borers, lace bugs, beetles and caterpillars. UF/IFAS says long-term health usually isn't affected by pests. What you may see:
- Aphids and scale: sticky honeydew and sooty mold on leaves and anything below. Natural enemies usually catch up; see aphids outdoors.
- Caterpillars and beetles: chew or skeletonize foliage. UF/IFAS notes willow is a favored host of spongy moth (formerly gypsy moth).
- Cankers and borers: sunken dead patches on bark, or holes with sawdust. These are more serious on stressed or older trees; see how to identify tree cankers.
- Willow scab and black canker: per UF/IFAS, scab kills young leaves quickly and moves into twigs, killing young shoots and causing cankers; together with another fungus it causes willow blight. Prune out infected branches.
- Storm breakage: the most common problem with weeping willows. Structural pruning while young reduces it.
- Browsing animals: the Arbor Day Foundation notes that rabbits, beavers and deer browse weeping willow. Cage young trees and cuttings.
Common mistakes
| Mistake | Why it matters | Do this instead |
|---|---|---|
| Mistake | Why it matters | Do this instead |
| Planting near the sewer or septic line | Roots seek out cracks in pipes and drain fields | Keep it beyond the root spread, about 3 times the canopy radius |
| Planting in a small yard | A 30–50 ft spread overwhelms the space and shades out the lawn | Choose a small weeping tree or a shrub willow |
| Planting on a dry site | Drought causes leaf drop and stress | Plant near water or in a naturally moist low spot |
| Letting several co-dominant trunks develop | Weak, narrow forks split in storms | Train to one central trunk while young |
| Planting a non-native willow along a stream | Non-native willows can escape and colonize wet areas | Check your state's invasive list; use black willow or silky willow |
Frequently asked
How fast does a weeping willow grow?
Very fast: the Arbor Day Foundation says weeping willow grows 3 feet or more a year. Mature trees reach about 30–50 feet tall with an equal or greater spread. Fast growth also means brittle wood and a short life, often about 30 years.
Where should you not plant a weeping willow?
Don't plant one near sewer, septic or water lines, foundations, driveways or patios, or in a small yard. UF/IFAS says the roots spread about three times the distance from trunk to canopy edge and can lift sidewalks, and the Missouri Botanical Garden notes they seek out cracks in pipes. Pond edges and large wet areas are the right place.
What are the disadvantages of a weeping willow tree?
Aggressive, shallow roots; brittle wood that drops twigs and limbs; constant leaf and twig litter; a short life; and many pests and diseases. Non-native willows can also escape into wet areas, and weeping willow is listed as invasive in Arlington County, Virginia. On a large wet site those trade-offs are often acceptable. Near a house they usually aren't.
How do you propagate a willow tree?
Take dormant cuttings from the previous year's growth in late winter. The USDA Forest Service describes live stakes 12–16 inches long and 1/2 to 2 inches thick, cut straight at the top and angled at the base. Keep them moist, push the base into wet soil with some buds above ground, and keep the soil wet.
Do deer eat weeping willow trees?
They can. The Arbor Day Foundation notes weeping willow provides browse for rabbits, beavers and deer, although the Missouri Botanical Garden lists it as deer-tolerant. Protect new plantings and cuttings with a wire cage until the canopy is above deer height.
How long do weeping willows live?
Not long by tree standards. UF/IFAS says weeping willows are usually short-lived, to 30 years or so, even with good training. Structural pruning while young, to one central trunk with wide branch angles, helps a tree last longer.
How close to a house can you plant a weeping willow?
Farther than most people expect. UF/IFAS estimates the roots spread about three times the distance from the trunk to the canopy edge, which works out to roughly 60 feet for a tree with a 40-foot-wide crown, and it advises keeping willows away from water and sewer lines and septic drain fields. The crown alone can spread 30–50 feet.
Sources
- Salix babylonica: Weeping Willow (ENH-734/ST576), UF/IFAS Extension
- Salix babylonica, NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
- Salix babylonica, Missouri Botanical Garden Plant Finder
- Learn About Weeping Willow, Arbor Day Foundation
- Weeping Willow, Arbor Day Foundation
- Weeping Willow (Salix alba), University of Minnesota Urban Forestry Outreach, Research & Extension
- Willows, Non-Native (Salix alba, S. babylonica & S. fragilis), Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia
- Collecting Dormant Hardwood Cuttings for Western Riparian Restoration Projects, USDA Forest Service
- Salix integra 'Hakuro Nishiki', NC State Extension Gardener Plant Toolbox
- Aphids (Pest Notes), UC Statewide IPM Program