Why won't my poppy seeds germinate?

Two common reasons: the seeds were covered with soil (they need light to germinate and should sit on the surface), or the seeds were sown when soil was too warm. Per University of Minnesota Extension, poppy seeds germinate best at soil temperatures of 55–65°F. Sowing in late spring when soil has already warmed above 70°F results in poor or no germination. Sow earlier — in late March or April in zones 5–7 — or try a fall sow.

My oriental poppy foliage disappeared in July. Did it die?

No — it went dormant, which is completely normal. Per Penn State Extension, oriental poppies are "spring ephemerals" that go fully dormant in summer heat. The roots are alive underground. New basal rosettes will appear in September or October and overwinter without protection in zones 3–7.

Can I transplant self-sown poppy seedlings?

With care, yes, but only when they are very small — less than 1 inch tall — before the taproot has developed significantly. Older seedlings transplant very poorly and usually die within days of being moved. Most growers find it easier to thin in place rather than transplant.

Are poppies deer-resistant?

Annual poppies are generally avoided by deer due to their somewhat bitter sap. Oriental poppies are similarly "rarely damaged" in most accounts. Per Rutgers NJAES Landscape Plants Rated by Deer Resistance, Papaver orientale falls in the "rarely damaged" category — a useful quality in high-deer-pressure landscapes.

How do I get poppies to self-sow reliably?

Allow the last flush of seedheads to fully ripen and dry on the plant, then scatter or shake seeds onto bare or lightly disturbed soil nearby. Annual poppies self-sow best where they have soil contact — mulched beds suppress germination. Per Oregon State Extension, "light raking of the surface before scattering seeds improves contact and germination rates."

Can I grow poppies in containers?

Annual breadseed and corn poppies can be grown in large containers (at least 12 inches deep to accommodate the taproot), sown directly. Oriental poppies are not well suited to containers because they need deep, undisturbed root runs and a dry summer dormancy period that is difficult to manage in a pot.

Home/Plants/Poppy Care: Annual and Perennial Papaver Species

Species guide

Poppy Care: Annual and Perennial Papaver Species

Annual and perennial Papaver species need different soil prep and deadheading strategies — this guide covers both, plus rust, overwatering, and the exact sowing window that makes or breaks a poppy patch.

By Thomas Joseph Published 2026-06-11 Updated 2026-06-13 Reviewed by Thomas Joseph 8 min read

Scarlet Papaver rhoeas poppies blooming in a sunny garden border — Photo: Unsplash

Which poppy do you have?

The word "poppy" covers plants in several genera, but most garden poppies belong to Papaver. The three types most home gardeners encounter are very different in lifecycle and care requirements.

Corn poppy / Flanders poppy (Papaver rhoeas)

The red-petaled poppy of Remembrance Day. A true annual — it germinates, blooms, sets seed, and dies in a single season. Blooms best in cool weather; plants collapse when summer heat arrives. Per Oregon State Extension, corn poppies "prefer cool temperatures and will stop blooming when heat arrives." Self-sows prolifically if seedheads are left to mature.

Breadseed / Opium poppy (Papaver somniferum)

Larger plant, blue-green foliage, flowers in white, pink, red, or purple with fringed petals. Also a cool-season annual. The ornamental double forms — 'Danish Flag,' 'Lauren's Grape,' 'Black Peony' — are grown entirely for flowers; the seedpods dry beautifully for arrangements. Per University of Minnesota Extension, all breadseed poppies are self-sowing annuals that naturalize easily in disturbed soil.

Oriental poppy (Papaver orientale)

The show-stopper perennial. Dinner-plate flowers in orange, red, coral, salmon, or white with black basal blotches. According to Penn State Extension, oriental poppies are "among the most spectacular of all hardy perennials" and are reliably perennial in USDA zones 3–7. The plant goes dormant in summer — the foliage yellows and disappears entirely — then re-emerges in fall as a rosette that overwinters and blooms again the following spring. This confuses new gardeners who think the plant died.

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