Blackberry care: erect vs trailing

Blackberries belong to the *Rubus* genus along with raspberries, but they differ in an important botanical detail: unlike raspberries, the central core (receptacle) remains attached to the fruit when picked -- the berry pulls off the cane with the core inside, which is what makes a blackberry black.

—- title: "Blackberry care: erect vs trailing" slug: blackberry-care hub: plants category: "Fruit tree guide" description: "How to grow blackberries (Rubus fruticosus and R. allegheniensis), the key differences between erect, semi-erect, and trailing types, and pruning for maximum production." date: 2026-06-10 updated: 2026-06-10 author: "Thomas A." reading_time: 9 scientific: "Rubus allegheniensis" zones_min: 5 zones_max: 9 sun: "full sun" —-

Blackberries belong to the Rubus genus along with raspberries, but they differ in an important botanical detail: unlike raspberries, the central core (receptacle) remains attached to the fruit when picked — the berry pulls off the cane with the core inside, which is what makes a blackberry black and solid-cored while a raspberry is hollow. This distinction matters less than the growth habit, which determines all management decisions.

Per Penn State Extension, blackberries are classified into three growth types:

• Erect: Stiff, upright canes that need minimal support; most cold-hardy; native Eastern species types
• Semi-erect: More vigorous, partially arching canes; very productive; need a simple trellis
• Trailing (dewberries): Long, flexible canes requiring a trellis; best flavor in many cultivars; less cold-hardy; the blackberry type of the Pacific Northwest

I don't grow blackberries at my Melville plot. Deer pressure is significant. This guide is sourced from Penn State, Cornell, and Clemson Extension.

Types and cold hardiness

Per Penn State Extension:

Erect blackberries:

• Zones 5-9
• Canes grow upright; thorny or thornless
• Spread by root suckers (like red raspberry) and are somewhat aggressive
• Can be grown without a trellis but benefit from a simple support
• Examples: Illini Hardy, Prime-Ark Traveler, Triple Crown (thornless semi-erect)

Semi-erect blackberries:

• Zones 5-9
• Large, very productive plants; arching canes reaching 10-12 feet
• Require a trellis with two or three wires at 3 and 5 feet height
• Generally thornless
• Examples: Chester, Triple Crown, Loch Ness

Trailing blackberries (dewberries):

• Zones 7-9 primarily; less cold-hardy
• Long, flexible canes must be tied to trellis; cannot support themselves
• Best flavor of the three types
• Require more management: training canes onto trellis after growth begins
• Examples: Marionberry, Thornless Evergreen, Boysenberry

USDA hardiness zones

Per Clemson HGIC, hardy in zones 5-9 for erect types; zones 5-9 for semi-erect; zones 7-9 for trailing. In zone 5, choose the most cold-hardy erect cultivars (Illini Hardy, Prime-Ark 45).

Light requirements

Per Penn State Extension, full sun — 8 hours minimum — for best production. Partial shade reduces yield and increases disease incidence.

Planting

Per Clemson HGIC, plant in early spring from bare-root plants or potted transplants:

• Erect types: 3-4 feet apart in rows; rows 8-10 feet apart
• Semi-erect/trailing types: 5-6 feet apart in rows; rows 10-12 feet apart
• Depth: Crown at or 1-2 inches below soil level

Install trellis before planting — it is much harder to retrofit after canes are growing. A simple two-wire trellis (3 and 5 feet high) on posts every 20 feet works for most types.

Watering

Per Penn State Extension, blackberries need consistent moisture: 1-1.5 inches per week during the growing season. Drought stress during fruit development produces small, seedy berries. Mulch rows with 3-4 inches of straw to maintain moisture and suppress weeds.

Soil requirements

Per Clemson HGIC, blackberries prefer:

• Well-drained, fertile loam
• pH 5.5-6.5
• High organic matter content

They are less tolerant of wet soils than their wild appearance suggests. Wild brambles on roadsides succeed in disturbed soils with good drainage; garden blackberries in compacted, wet clay will struggle.

Fertilizing

Per Penn State Extension, apply balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 at 3 lbs per 100 square feet of row) in early spring. Do not fertilize after July to avoid winter-damage-prone late growth.

Pruning schedule

All blackberries fruit on second-year floricanes, per Cornell Cooperative Extension. The pruning schedule:

After harvest (July-August):

1. Remove all floricanes (fruited canes, which are brown and woody) at the soil level — these canes are dead and will not fruit again
2. Tip primocanes (green first-year canes) to 3-4 feet to encourage lateral branching — laterals will become the fruiting wood next year

Spring before bloom:

1. Cut lateral branches back to 12-18 inches (this is where fruit will develop)
2. Remove any winter-damaged cane tips
3. Thin primocanes that emerged from the previous fall to 5-6 per linear foot

Trailing types: Immediately after harvest, remove old canes; tie new primocanes loosely in a bundle along the bottom wire through winter; train them onto the upper wires in spring.

Managing aggressive spread

Per Penn State Extension, erect blackberries spread by root suckers and can colonize adjacent lawn and garden areas within 2-3 seasons. Manage by:

• Cutting suckers that appear outside the intended row width with a flat-edged spade
• Mowing around the row weekly in summer when suckering is active
• Installing a 12-18 inch deep root barrier along the row edges (impractical for long rows but useful for contained beds)

Disease management

Per Cornell Cooperative Extension:

**Orange rust (Gymnoconia peckiana):** Bright orange masses on leaf undersides; causes bright red-orange pustules. No cure — affected plants must be removed and destroyed. Do not compost. Replant with certified disease-free stock.

Rosette (double blossom): Witches'-broom-like proliferation of flower buds; caused by the fungus Cercosporella rubi. Remove and destroy affected growth; replant with resistant varieties.

**Anthracnose (Elsinoe veneta):** Gray, sunken lesions on canes. Remove infected wood; improve air circulation; spray copper at bud break in heavily affected plantings.

Per UC IPM, gray mold (Botrytis) on ripe fruit is managed by improving air circulation, avoiding overhead irrigation, and harvesting promptly.

Common problems

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a blackberry and a dewberry? Per Penn State Extension, dewberry is a common name for trailing blackberry species and cultivars (sometimes Rubus trivialis in the Southeast). Botanically, they are all in the Rubus genus. Dewberries tend to ripen earlier than erect blackberries and are often considered to have superior flavor. The Marionberry, a popular Oregon cultivar, is a dewberry type.

Are thornless blackberries as productive as thorny types? Per Clemson HGIC, thornless blackberries (Chester, Triple Crown, Ouachita) are generally as productive as thorny types and are increasingly popular. They are somewhat easier to manage at harvest. The absence of thorns does not indicate reduced vigor or yield.

Can I grow blackberries in a container? Per Penn State Extension, erect blackberries can be grown in 15-20 gallon containers with good results. They need consistent watering (containers dry faster) and regular fertilization. Container culture also naturally limits the suckering habit. Full-sun placement is required.

When do blackberries ripen? Per Cornell Cooperative Extension, erect blackberries ripen from late June through August in zones 5-7, depending on variety. Trail and semi-erect types ripen from July through September. Ripe blackberries are fully black and separate from the cane with a gentle pull; berries that require force are not fully ripe.

Sources

1. Penn State Extension — Small fruits: blackberries
2. Clemson HGIC — Blackberries
3. Cornell Cooperative Extension — Blackberry pruning and management
4. UC IPM — Cane fruit diseases