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Dormant sprays before bud break
- Dormant oil: per Oregon State University, a dormant oil spray on fruit trees in late winter smothers overwintering aphid, scale and mite eggs before they become a spring problem. Apply when buds are still dormant or just beginning to swell, on a dry day above freezing, and follow the label.
- Peach leaf curl: if you haven't made the late-winter spray yet, do it before the buds swell. WSU Extension is clear that sprays after bud break don't control the disease.
Don't spray oil on plants under drought stress or when a freeze is forecast, and check the label for plants that are sensitive to oil.
Spray only the trees with a history of the pest. Dormant oil isn't needed on every tree every year. Cover bark, twigs and bud bases thoroughly, since the oil works only where it touches the eggs. Keep spray off nearby plants and out of ponds and streams.
Pruning: roses, cane berries and the last fruit trees
- Roses: per OSU Extension, prune in late winter once the danger of hard freezes has passed. In the western lowlands that is late February into early March (see the March guide). Pruning in a January warm spell invites dieback.
- Raspberries and blackberries: per OSU Extension, late-winter care keeps cane berries productive. Remove canes that fruited last year if you haven't already, thin the new canes, and tie them to the trellis. Fall-bearing raspberries cut to the ground last fall need only cleanup.
- Apples, pears and blueberries: finish dormant pruning before buds open. The March guide sets early March as the deadline for apples and pears.
- Ornamental grasses and perennials: cut back last year's stems before new shoots come up.
- Summer-blooming shrubs: butterfly bush, caryopteris and smooth and panicle hydrangeas flower on new wood and can be cut back in late winter. Leave bigleaf hydrangeas, rhododendrons, camellias and other spring bloomers alone. Their flower buds are already formed.
When pruning roses, remove dead, diseased and crossing canes first, then cut the remaining canes to outward-facing buds. Clean up all old rose leaves and prunings. Black spot spores carry over on debris, and west-side springs are wet enough to spread them fast.
Jiffy seed starter kit
February is when brassicas, lettuce and onions start indoors west of the Cascades, and a kit with a light avoids the leggy seedlings a gray PNW window produces. See how we chose it.
Seed starting indoors
OSU Extension's February calendar marks the start of the seed-starting season. In the western lowlands:
- Now: broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, kale and lettuce for planting out under row cover in March. Also onions and leeks, if they weren't started in January.
- Early March: peppers. Mid-March to April 1: tomatoes. The March guide covers these.
- Use fresh seed-starting mix, give seedlings strong light, and harden transplants off before setting them out.
Most cool-season crops germinate faster on a heat mat, but grow them on in cooler conditions once they are up. Warm, dim rooms produce soft, stretched seedlings. Keep lights a few inches above the plants, run a small fan for sturdier stems, and water from below to limit damping-off. Plan to harden off brassica transplants for about a week before planting them out under row cover in March.
First outdoor sowings, if the soil allows
Soil condition decides when you can start, not the calendar. Squeeze a handful. If it stays in a sticky ball, wait. OSU Extension explains the lasting damage from working saturated soil.
- Peas: in the mildest sites and in raised beds that drain well, sow in late February. Most west-side gardeners sow by mid-March (see the March guide).
- Fava beans, spinach, onion sets: these handle cold soil and can go in under cover in well-drained beds.
- Turn under or cut down cover crops a few weeks before you plan to plant into those beds.
Beds, soil tests and early weeds
- Weeds: hairy bittercress, annual bluegrass and other winter weeds flower in late winter. Bittercress flings its seed when touched, so pull it before the pods ripen. A few minutes of weeding now saves hours in May.
- Compost: spread an inch or two of finished compost over beds you plan to plant in March and April. Let worms and rain work it in rather than digging wet soil.
- Soil test: many west-side soils are naturally acidic after years of winter rain. Test before liming. A lab test tells you whether lime is needed and how much. Lime works slowly, so it is most effective when applied well ahead of planting.
- Raised beds: build or repair beds now in spots that stayed waterlogged this winter, so they are ready for spring planting.
- Perennials: divide summer- and fall-blooming perennials such as asters and ornamental grasses as new growth appears. Leave spring bloomers until after they flower.
Slugs before planting
Per OSU Extension, spring is the second prime window for slug control, and the eggs laid last fall are hatching now. Following OSU's slug control guide, start before you plant: clear hiding spots, trap or hand-pick on mild wet evenings, and scatter iron phosphate bait around the beds you will plant first. Bait is most effective put down ahead of seedlings, not after they have been eaten.
Look for clusters of small, clear, pearly eggs under boards, pots and mulch near beds. Destroy them when you find them. Each cluster you remove now is dozens fewer slugs in April. Copper strips or barriers around raised beds help keep slugs out once the beds are cleared, but only if no slugs are already inside.
Lawns: crane fly checks and moss
Lawns aren't ready for fertilizer yet. Feeding before the soil warms mostly feeds the rain (see the March guide). Two checks are worth doing:
- European crane fly: WSU Extension explains that the larvae (leatherjackets) feed in western Washington lawns in late winter and spring. Before deciding on any treatment, cut and lift a few small sections of sod in thin or damaged areas and count the grubs. Healthy, well-maintained lawns tolerate moderate numbers.
- Moss: per OSU Extension and WSU Extension, rake out dead moss and fix shade, drainage and fertility first. Overseed thin areas in the spring window (April–May) or in fall.
Use February to get ready. Sharpen the mower blade, flag low spots that stayed waterlogged, and plan aeration for compacted areas once the soil dries out. Core aeration on soggy February turf does more harm than good.
East of the Cascades
East of the Cascades (zones 5–7), February is still winter. Follow OSU Extension's Eastern Oregon seed-starting schedule. Onions and leeks are typically the first crops started indoors, and most others wait until March or April. Prune apples and pears in late winter once the coldest weather has passed. Keep winter mulch on roses and strawberries until hard freezes are over. Dormant oil goes on closer to bud break, which comes later than on the west side.
On mild days, look over trees and shrubs for winter damage: split bark, broken limbs, rodent girdling at the snow line. Make clean pruning cuts once the coldest weather has passed. Check stored dahlias, cannas and gladiolus, and plan the irrigation start-up for after the last hard freeze.
Common mistakes
| Mistake | Consequence | Correct approach |
|---|---|---|
| Spraying for peach leaf curl after buds break | No control; the infection is already set | Spray before bud swell |
| Pruning roses during a mid-winter warm spell | Dieback when cold weather follows | Prune in late February to early March |
| Sowing into soggy soil | Seeds rot and the soil compacts | Wait for crumbly soil, or plant in raised beds |
| Baiting slugs only after damage appears | Seedlings are lost overnight | Bait and clear hiding spots before planting |
| Fertilizing the lawn in February | Nutrients leach away in the rain | Wait until spring growth is active |
Frequently asked
When should I prune roses in Portland or Seattle?
Late February into early March, once hard freezes are unlikely. OSU Extension cautions that pruning too early can lead to dieback.
What is dormant oil, and when do I spray it?
It is a horticultural oil applied to dormant fruit trees to smother overwintering aphid, scale and mite eggs. Apply it in late winter before buds open, on a dry day above freezing, following the label.
Can I plant peas in February in the Pacific Northwest?
In the mildest sites and in well-drained raised beds, yes. Most west-side gardeners sow peas by mid-March, once the soil crumbles instead of clumping.
How do I know if crane flies are damaging my lawn?
WSU Extension recommends sampling: lift small sections of sod in thin areas and count the larvae. Treat only if numbers are high and the turf is thinning.
Sources
- February Garden Calendar (EM 9689), OSU Extension
- Get a leg up on fruit tree problems with dormant oils, Oregon State University
- When should I prune my roses?, OSU Extension
- Late-winter care keeps raspberries and blackberries productive, OSU Extension
- Lawn and Turf: European Crane Fly, WSU Extension HortSense
- How to Control Slugs in Your Garden (EM 9155), OSU Extension
- Peach: Leaf curl, WSU Extension HortSense
- Eastern Oregon seed-starting schedule, OSU Extension